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I wonder if the case study is with the knowledge/permission/blessing of Swytch?

Oh dear, that battery looks to be as said already, something cheap and nasty from somewhere like Ali Express I would hazard a guess that the previous owner just bought it to be able to sell the bike in working order. But glad to hear that you are enjoying the ebike experience but to continue to...

As a basic principle, to replace a BMS requires a bit of a strip down to get to the module and then some unsoldering of some cables and usually just unplugging the battery sensing wires. One would have thought that for the supplier to do this would take an hour's work? The BMS it's self may...

I'm suspecting a BMS problem for several reasons: In first post you said battery had died but showing plenty of charge. I'm guessing you mean the motor assist stopped rather than the battery died? Then the charger led staying green. It normally goes green (from red) to show charging is...

Enjoy the fettling - it's good to get inside these motors occasionly to check for any water ingress or re-greasing. If for no other reason it is good to explore the motor's layout to get to understand the various parts and their location and to realise that it isn't complicated to swap out most...

@Woosh makes a very good point as when you're free-wheeling nothing inside the motor is moving. Out of interest, when you took the Marin 'out of retirement', did you test ride it before fitting the TSDZ2?

Good to hear that things are on the up and that the 'Q' factor element has been put into perspective. I've always been sceptical about ordinary cyclists saying their bike's Q factor is an issue. For a normal healthy person it really is difficult to imagine that a few millimetres here or there...

Bike noises like that can be a devil to find On my TSDZ2 I had what seemed like a sprag clutch failure in that on hard peddling the cranks would slip/skip a few teeth in the motor - a classic sprag clutch issue There's a YT vid somewhere with a guy stomping on the pedals to demonstrate this and...

The cape I have (but haven't used for years) was a total blessing on some very wet days on a cycle tour - it has a hood too and underneath the cape all was warm and cosy. Downsides are as mentioned, the wind and exspecially a crosswind, see you being buffeted around a bit and of course a...

I think (and understand why) you are clutching at straws here. In that audio clip: how near to the noise source was the recording microphone (just trying to understand the depth/volume of the creaking noise)? From a mechanical point of view I've never heard of a Blue Gear bearing failure before...

I've no particular idea behind the problem but given that fitting a new controller inside the motor isn't a straight forward task and that the fault symptoms now are different to the original one, it seems less likely that the new controller is faulty but more likely a fault has been introduced...

That @Paultig is a very neat conversion. On the battery support matter, rather than straps, have you considered adding rivnuts to the frame? Obviously an ordinary drill won't be able to line up with the underside of the frame but maybe a small right-angle adapter will do it? I bought one of...

Assuiming there's nothin else wrong with the drive train I think a strip-down is inevitable On the non-drive side take of the crank arm and then the motor cover to reveal the main gear wheel. This area can be prone to water ingress and it's possible that there was minor corrosion going on...

Yup, I had that problem with a friend's bike (LINK) - I said I could probably get it back to working order but being an impatient sort he just bought another and gave me his old one which I've stripped down and am in the process of re-building. I love how easy these motors are to strip down and...

Bravo @vidtek for sticking with cycling despite having to put up with the discomfort. How's the TSDZ2 going BTW?

Ouch - there's nothing worse than a sore butt from cycling - I'm guessing you've tried different saddles although that can be an expensive experiment. I've always got on well with Brookes leather jobbies - torture for some but heaven for others. Posteriors and saddles are very personal things...

Yes, I do - I run my TSDZ2 250w mostly on ECO assist, so low current draw and as a 'reserve tank' I built a 10s 2p battery using the LG 21700 M50LT costing about £100 or less and I carry it in a small handlebar bag. This gives me around 8.5Ah+ and an extra 40+ miles I am now looking to build...

The screws are are slot headed and are very tight to remove so ensure the screwdriver you use is a good fit in the slot and apply plenty of downward pressure when undoing. On the two motors I've dismantled the screws have seemed unreasonably tight (maybe there's a reason for this?) so I can...

Apologies if I missed it, but what voltage is your battery? If 48v rather than 36v, then for any given power output the possible overheat issues are less so with the 48v version. The heat is caused by the current through the motor and as Power is the product of current and voltage (P = I x V)...