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My only IGH experience is with Rohloff so no idea about what you have/are looking at but a change to Nexus or Alfina looks to be a costly exercise. So, assuming the front chain ring is a single, might it be possible to fit a double chain ring to increase your overall gear range? Not as neat an...

When I raised this thread I was curious to know Hi @matthewslack, looking at that data sheet was useful in helping me to understand, in principle at least, how a Hall Sensor with two Hall Plates can determine the direction of rotation of a magnetic ring like that that we see on ebikes. In...

Why not just seal the original after you've next dried it out? It's possible of course that your display has a leak other than through the case opening so seal this off with tape first to see if it stays dry and if it does, permanently seal it (or use hot glue which can be released if needed).

..... with a bottom bracket torque sensor as you can get with some of the kits from the likes of @Woosh (and pre-built ebikes fitted with the Mahle X20 ad X30 motors now have torque sensors in the BB - clearly a growing trend). Just saying........ :rolleyes:

I haven't look for such instances myself, nor will I as it is virtually impossible to determine why the fire occurred. Was it: poorly built battery i.e. something coming loose in the pack (rather than down to how it was used) a controller pulling too much current for the battery cells and other...

This forum is no exception to that of course. So how does a 3-legged device determine the direction of roation, that's what I'd like to know? And taking a more simplistic approach, I have yet to find a 3-legged i.c. that offers dual direction detection, have you as then I might be convinced?

> From your requirements you will require a second device of some sort (other than your phone). > If going for something like a Garmin or similar device, then there is a learning curve to this, hardly "a bit more straight forward" to using the phone IMHO > As for worrying about battery usage...

The latest Mahle X20 system does use a torque and cadence sensor in the bottom bracket whilst the earlier X35 model did not have torque sensing AFAIK just a cadence sensor in the rear hub but none the less appeared to deliver power smoothly (so maybe using algorithms similar in effect to what KT...

Think very carefully before buying into a proprietary system (vs kit conversions using generic parts) as in the cost of any replacement parts, especially the battery and you need to be really sure that you have somewhere to deal with any problems that might arise. Do a good search for something...

I'm with you on the dual hall sensor explanation @jarnold, and in the link to the technical piece the single chip was 2 hall elements. As for the greater reporting of dual hall sensors issues vs single ones, I doubt the average person would now the difference. Further, I can well imagine that...

Thanks for your input folks. Directed by your responses I've done a little bit of digging about Dual Hall Sensors, semi conductor devices that can have two Hall plates in the same chip and to quote from one source (LINK) --------------- "Detecting the direction and speed of rotation of a...

As we all know the Pedal Assist System (PAS) sensor only produces an "I am pedalling" signal when pedalling forward but not when turning the cranks backwards (are there excptions to this?). I am idley curious as to how the sensor works out the difference between forward and backwards crank...

Absolutely so but if the sealant were right at the point of cable exit on the axle then like many other sealed surfaces on a bike, the moisture won't penetrate surely? The disadvantage of the 'drip loop' approach is the possibility of the motor cable snagging on something and getting damaged...

As I said I would in post #10, I have now popped into Cytronex in Winchester posing as a potential customer and amongst other things I asked about, was the fitting of their hub motor to carbon forks. The guy I spoke with was very knowledgeable and has worked there for a good few years, so much...

For C5 settings and in the absence of all else and given the wisdom of Amberwolf of ES (link) I'll settle on the table below: The quote about C5 from Amberwolf: From the wording and the typical way such things may work, I would guess that it is simply three different settings for the slow...

Thanks for that @Sturmey and your observations bear testimony to other post from ES that C14 is indeed a scaling factor and in your case show around a 20% increase in measured power between C14 = 2 or 3. I've only been riding my first hub bike conversion for a couple of weeks and I have C14=2...

As is typical, the thread has drifted somewhat but going back to your original posting about a 'stronger' motor etc. In the event you come up with any candidates, you might like to lend some thought to the question of 'anti-torque' washers/tabs/arms? To aid understanding of what might be...

So rumaging around Endless Sphere the best description of C14 is, quote, "With the LCD3, you can set C5 for 50-100% of the max current, and set C14 for weak,normal, or strong pedal strength. 'My question is what exactly does pedal strength mean e.g. does 'strong pedal strength' mean you have to...

Yes, I get that about loosing the soul of the machine and if fettling with electric cables and so forth isn't your thing, and not being able to shorten and hide cables and then clamping on some hideous battery case rather than a discrete alternative, would indeed spoil 'the look' of the original...

I've never really got into understanding how BLDC motors work and compare, beyond the basics and until recently I've only ridden the TSDZ2 where in my 'research' such as it was, I just settled for people's experiences of the motor and a subjective estimation of whether it would give me what I...