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I wonder if a small standard BMS could be substituted for the Bosch control PCB in the pack.

Agreed, but maybe the way to go is the Einhell route rather than Bosch. Einhell have everything contained in the tool battery and you are not reliant on tool/battery COMs. However, the Einhell set up only uses 18 V packs, so you have to use 2 in series.

Over current is usually not an issue unless someone tried to run a 20 A plus controller on a tool battery not designed for that kind of draw...or a MOSFET goes down in the controller - I've had that happen before. I do worry about the lack of individual cell monitoring. If one cell is weak, the...

The concerns I have with this are that with some of the Bosch batteries (it seems particularly the older versions) have only a very primitive monitoring system that only looks at temperature, with no balance, no undervoltage protection (maybe in the COMs protocol to the tool, or the tool just...

There is a fuse on the Bosch battery, which I forget the rating (I think it has been mentioned in this thread) although it is a lot less than 75A. But yes, the OP does need to be sure that the batteries they have chosen for their DIY pack can handle the kind of currents to be expected from the...

Nice! I'll give 163 a try. I don't know how they can claim 58 Nm torque, sounds way too high.

You can buy the Bosch battery style board for about £20, or you can pick up a dead battery quite cheaply and obtain a genuine board from that.

I agree. I am assuming that the OP knows what they are doing, has built the battery to a suitable standard, to be able to supply enough current, is properly fused and has its own BMS with thermal cut out etc etc.

I wonder if you just took a control board from a dead Bosch battery and connected it in parallel to the DIY pack whether it would provide the centre pin signal? All it seems to do is monitor temperature and if that's at room temperature, it wouldn't report an error.

Looks like the electrolytic capacitor has blown in the power supply module. Surprising to still see that these days. Use epoxy to glue the LEDs to a heat sink. You do need a current control module though to ensure the LEDs run properly.

Thanks for doing the donkey work of cracking open your motor and counting teeth. I have been trying to do the same with a Yose 250W motor, KT controller and an LCD3 display. The default P1 value I've found to be 90 and this seems to work ok in terms of power cut out at a given set speed. I'm...

I quite often do that if I can get the glue gun in there to stop fatigue of the wire joint. Never had a back come off though. Normally it's quite hard to remove after clicking in place.

XT60s are not water proof as standard, but there are some waterproof versions available with rubber seals.

What sort of Yose Power pack do you have? For my Silverfish 15.6A I replaced the blade receptacle with 12 AWG cables and an XT60. From that it's quite easy to add a "Y" spitter or other power take off.

I've not been able to get the Yose power PAS to work with the LCD3.

It'll be interesting to see how you get on. What LCD controller are you planning to use?

But the motor cable and the controller cable have Julet connectors, so I can't easily swap things around.

Do you mean in the software, or a physical connection of the wires?

It's not too bad on the flat, it accelerates and gets to 25 kph, although not at what you would call lightning acceleration. The main problem is as soon as there is a slight incline, it can't maintain that speed and steeper hills are quite a challenge for it. I don't think turning down the...

It's just a generic Yose Power 250 W front hub with AKMxxx markings, and there is no info on gearing or winding. Ok, I'll try those numbers and see what happens... In terms of numbers on the motor, there is the code "95RS. F250-3626" Which could be the 95RS model, Front 250 W, 36 V 26 inch...