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Steve - have a look at this thread. It has links to short recordings of my wheel. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/woosh-dwg22c-rear-hub-motor-ticking-noise.42408/#post-634484 If you ignore the wind noise, you can hear the motor running and it's pretty quiet.

Steve - try uploading your audio file to a site like 'Dropbox' and then posting a link here. I think I did something similar when trying to identify a clicking noise from my wheel (it was spoke noise).

I have a DWG22 kit fitted to a tandem and also to a solo machine. In both cases the motor is very quiet and smooth. As you would expect there is some motor noise, but it is of little consequence. You can hear when the motor is providing power, but it is quite a subtle whine and hardly...

Same problem here - mainly on the tandem, but on solo bikes too. As Bikes4two says, just try to remember to ease a bit forward when setting off. It's usually the rear pocket of my jackets that get caught (and ripped!).

sjpt, that's interesting to note as the 48 volt DWG22 has not exhibited that characteristic in our use. On steep hills we usually climb at about 8 - 9 mph in level 2 and if you then select level 3 or above, there is a noticeable surge from the motor and we continue the climb at around 12 - 13...

Bogmonster666 - Keep us posted as to your progress, it's always interesting to hear of / learn from the experiences of others.

I can't answer all of your questions, but I have installed two of the Woosh DWG22-C kits. One is on our tandem, the other on a solo. Both have the downtube 12 Ah battery. You can read about my experience of fitting the kit to the tandem in one of my posts on the site. I'm a similar size /...

The example shown by the OP was obviously an unacceptable and risky overtake. I'm a member of several car forums and several cycling forums. The views are often highly polarised on each side of the argument. I regularly see evidence of poor conduct by drivers and also by cyclists. As our roads...

I'm no expert on e-bikes as I'm a recent convert to electric assist, but I have fitted Woosh rear hub motor kits to two of my bikes with few issues. More experienced members have sourced parts separately but as a novice, my preference was to buy a kit from a known supplier as it should all fit...

Absolutely agree - I find it quite amazing how little some people know about basic machinery and how to operate / fix it. What tends to get on my nerves a bit is the lack of effort (by some people) to try and understand & resolve a problem. I like the phrase: 'I can explain it to you, but I...

My first 'proper' bike was a Carlton International in the early 1970's. Wet weather stopping with centre-pull calipers on chromed rims was interesting to say the least. I think even the cheapest, nastiest bike sold today would have vastly superior stopping power.

I only have one bike (a tandem) with a mechanical disk brake. It's a TRP Spyke on the rear wheel and works very well. Adjustment took quite a bit of time and fiddling about with caliper alignment to get right, but once set up it has been very consistent. The twin piston design of the TRP was...

I'm probably in the minority in that I do try to observe the 20mph limit. I also think that it is too slow in many cases, but if those are the rules, then I'll try to obey them. I set my cruise control for 22mph which equates to an actual 20mph according to radar speed limit signs / GPS. We...

Fixed that for you :)

Some 'mystery' gear shifting issues can be caused by a misaligned derailleur hanger. It only takes a very minor degree of misalignment to cause shifting problems - although this tends to be across the whole cassette rather than a single gear. If you don't have the correct tool to check...

The reason I used washers was that the spoke holes in my hub are 3.3mm and even with Sapim Strong spokes, it looked like there would be a (minor) risk of 'bottle capping' due to the angle the spokes took up. The wheel has only done a few hundred miles thus far, so I'll see how it goes.

Single-butted Sapim Strong spokes are quite well regarded for use in hub motors as the flange spoke holes are normally larger than 'normal' hubs. I have them in my Shengyi rear hub motor and use Sapim spoke washers at the hub end too. Double-butted spokes would probably not give you any...

Malcolm, by all means use the Grin calculator but bear in mind nealh's comments about the much larger flange diameter that is common in motors used in North America. I don't don't know what size the flanges are on your motor, but if they are small, then a twin cross pattern may well be more...

The wheel building / measurement videos on the Grin web site are also very good. Not as comprehensive as Roger Musson's wheelbuilding book (well worth buying IHMO) but a good guide. In my (limited) experience if you get the spoke lengths correct, the wheel build itself is actually quite...

I may be oversimplifying things, but I just bought 'normal' low-voltage incandescent bulbs in 100 watt and 60 watt power ratings. I made up a battery holder wired to a standard 13 amp trailing socket and I connect an ordinary lamp fitting to that...