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I have seen this loads of times. You need to use better quality connectors.

Your bike has a canbus system, so you will not have any joy in fitting an aftermarket controller unless you replace the battery management system.

You can legally sell a brand new e-bike in the UK that’s not road legal. You just can’t ride it in public places. It’s exactly the same for off road motorcycles. That’s why I don’t see the DVSA being able to do anything about stopping the Chinese imports via European warehouses. And all they...

I’m not sure the DVSA going to be able to crack down on those companies advertising on eBay who deliver directly from warehouses in Poland and Eire? Illegal e-bikes seem to flow in quite easily to the UK from China via European warehouses.

If it has a hall sensor connector then it will be a KT square wave sensored controller. Not all KT square wave controllers are sensorless. You can try to cross check it here. https://ebikesolution.co.uk/collections/ebike-controllers Ebike solutions have a good selection of KT controllers of...

The thin wires are connected to the hall sensors. All of your testing must be done on the thin wires. The thick wires are the motor phase wires. You should have red, black, yellow, blue, green and white thin wires. Forget about white, that is usually for the speed sensor. Red and Black thin...

Try reading this tutorial to see if it makes any sense to you. It has photographs which may help you understand a bit better. https://ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf

I don’t think you are doing the hall test properly. Make sure you rotate the wheel backwards so the clutch doesn’t engage. 4.3v on red is usually the supply voltage and won’t switch when the wheel is slowly rotated. You should see green, yellow and blue switch between 1.8v and 4.3v as you...

I’m thinking an electronic component in the display is not working properly, either out of tolerance or failed completely and is causing an input to the processor to not latch on/off when the switch is turned off. So the display needs to be completely powered down for the input to reset...

That’s handy. You can make wiring changes without destroying the display cable. Are you able to measure the voltage on each of those red wires to ground? One of them may be battery voltage and the other may be low voltage. You may be able to switch the low voltage line to remove power from...

Could it be for the stupid KT lighting circuit? That’s just a guess. Opening the controller is definitely the answer in this case.

Yep it is a bit of a hack, but I think that will be the lesser of all evils and won’t completely spoil the bike.

I think the problem lays within the display if you need to remove the power from the display and reconnect every time in order to power it up. However I don’t think it’s easy to repair as a diy job unless you have enough expertise with electronics. It looks like an expensive display and spare...

This is a recent thread on ES that suggests it’s for brakes, but the thread appears to be non conclusive, so don’t bank on it. You will probably have to open up the controller to be sure and then you can check the throttle wiring at the same time...

A real Stealth Bomber B52 is an Australian e-bike capable of 60mph. They have been around for many years and are very expensive. Stealth also make less powerful and cheaper e-bikes these days and some of them are road legal. Europe has been flooded with much cheaper ebikes called Stealth...

Ooh I just looked at your bike and it’s not a cheap bike and is fully integrated, so bolting on an external controller will not be very elegant. It‘s another prime example of an ebike with built in obsolescence at a premium cost. A lovely looking bike but not very easy to maintain.

I had a similar problem to this once where I could only get it to switch on by either uplugging and reconnecting the display or disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. I bought the bike with this known fault and it was a a nasty little Lishui controller and a weird GoodTimes display that...

Yep, the Dutch do like their threaded stems.

Have you tried removing the handlebars and taking the plastic cup off the top to see if there is a nut underneath? That could be a Gazelle bike mechanics special know how. And an adjustable spanner to tighten the nut could be the special tool.

It says if you can’t fix the head set lateral and fore and aft movement yourself you need to take it to a Gazelle dealer and they have the tools and know how to fix it for you. This usually means that it is an awkward sob to repair yourself and you will probably break something if you try.