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Have you read section 1.3? If you haven’t, you won’t be happy when you do.

The last paragraph of section 3.1 says when it is adjusted correctly there should be no lateral or fore and aft play.

The photos you posted don’t really show enough. Does your bike have head tube suspension? If so then the manual in the link explains how to adjust it in section 3.1 They couldn’t make it more complicated if they tried. So good luck in trying to adjust this properly...

JST connectors are commonly used on e-bikes and they are very fiddly to crimp...

The OP hasn’t said if he has adjusted any of the advanced settings. He has only mentioned the general settings. It could be limited because the maximum current is set too low or one of the other advanced settings hasn’t been set up properly...

From what I can make out by his phone conversation at the end is that he bought the bike recently that was already converted and was explaining to the fella he bought it from what had happened and asked if he could fix it today. And then when he didn’t get the answer he was looking for, he lost...

Someone has copied my eMaxi, but mine is more reliable.

There are many, so just pick one on eBay that you look the like of. Some of them are even UK compliant.

It’s for Americans. Our roads aren‘t suitable for side cars and our culture doesn’t appreciate them either.

Yeah side cars are cool.

Cooler King is a UK company, but their bikes are themed on motorcycles and made in China. They appeal to me but I don’t think many on here share my enthusiasm for them.

A2B bikes were expensive and German designed. They went out of business when the cheap Chinese bikes flooded the market. The same thing happened to Bionx who made the Smart bike.

On mine the display will time out if it doesn’t see a wheel speed signal after 5 minutes. The time out is adjustable on the display. I use 2 magnets for the speed sensor to increase the magnetic field.

It will be a bit of work to convert your motor so it can be used with a standard external controller. The motor needs to be completely rewired and I think it uses optical sensors instead of hall sensors, so if you do decide to convert it you may be better off running it sensorless. And a...

That’s a brave man cycling through the middle of a riot. Here is a similar one for sale and there are plenty more on eBay...

I use these and solder them, then put a couple of layers of heatshrink over them. I don’t like those cheap crimp butt connectors. I have seen many of them burned. https://www.toolstation.com/copper-tube-butt-connectors/p34260

Here is a good link to various higo connectors for e-bikes. https://www.higoconnector.com/en/e-bike-connectors/connectors?search=&page=1&itemsPerPage=21&sortBy=isRecommended&sortingDirection=DESC

Yes it does need something to take away the blandness, but I haven’t made up my mind about what decals or wrap to get yet.

I built a fibreglass race fairing to cover the controller box and to hide the wiring. I hade to make it in 8 separate parts and glassed them all together. Followed by a bit of body filler at the joints and a couple of spray cans of the same paint that I used for the frame, flatted and polished...

I looked at them last year but decided against using them. They are probably ok for building a static battery, but not for an Ebike. They have a history of cracking and make the overall size of the pack quite a lot bigger. They aren’t that expensive if you are building a 1 off pack if you...