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Good review of one here and he changed the handlebars to fix the reach. And did a few other modifications that aren’t to my taste, but the great thing about these kind of bikes is that you can modify them for your own personal requirements. I would have built a box to accommodate one large...

C6 adjusts the backlight. You are locked out of the P and C settings so you can’t alter it from the factory settings. C4 would solve the problem you are experiencing with the throttle, but once again you are locked out so you can’t change this function either. This has been factory set to...

Specifications say saddle height is 82, presumably that’s in cm. And suitable for riders 5’2” to 6’3” My Greaser peddles quite well though and I’m 5’9”. My legs do have a tendency to brush on the tank sometimes.

Now this I like very much. I’m sure it’s not everyone’s cup of tea but I like the look of it even more than my Greaser. It’s more expensive but not outrageously so. It’s ideal for modding as well, with easy to get to external cabling. And that motor could be 750 watts, electronically restricted...

May be a good time to post a photograph of the connector from the sensor to the controller, which will hopefully show the wiring colours.

In that case you will have to do some standard fault finding using a multimeter. Pas sensors usually have 3 wires, 5v, 0v and signal. When you pedal the signal wire will give a 5v pulse every time a magnet passes the sensor. And of course the 3 wires from the pedal sensor have to be connected to...

There are plenty of you tube videos of pas sensor problems and how to fix them. Some are cringeworthy and others are quite helpful. And remember not to make the common mistake of setting the bike at pas 0 when you are testing.

So have you tried back peddling yet to see if it kicks in?

I would be tempted to open up the motor and start counting magnets and number of the the on the gears, but I can understand if you don’t want to do that. Also I don’t think P2 should be at 0 either. You must have at least one magnet for the wheel speed sensoring.

Has the sensor been replaced with one that has the same number of magnets? And are all of the pas P settings set correctly from the manual: P9 - Zero start & Non-zero Start. 0 is Zero Start, 1 is Non-zero Start P10 - Driving mode: 0 - is driven by PAS. Throttle is useless at this time. 1 - is...

Not crossed wires, but some controllers have a function where you can reverse the pas signal so you don’t have to physically move the sensor to the other side of the

Have you tried pedalling backwards to see if the pas kicks in reverse?

This is the answer to sunlight problems, although they will introduce other challenges.

An alternative solution:

It’s a Uni Moke with a seat extension. https://classic-cycle.com/saddle/saddles/all-saddles/3739/seat-extension/pillion-seat/seat-cushion-for-uni-mk-carbon?c=487

One thing I have just noticed is they are tektro brake levers and they may be magnetic switches stuck on underneath. That white stuff may be double sided sticky pads. I can’t see clearly from the photographs. If that is the case then the magnets may be positioned incorrectly on the lever so...

It would be good if you could find the specifications for your gear reduction ratio and number of magnets for both P1 and P2. I know a lot of people say P1 only affects the displayed speed and P2 should be set to 0. But when I set mine up properly I got a noticeable improvement in performance...

Is C5 set to 10?

That tape on your brake switch cover is suspicious. Maybe take a closer look to see if someone has been fiddling with it. The cover should be easy to remove with a couple of small screws. Top tip, don’t drop the screws on the floor because you will never find them again. VOE.

BBSHD comes with a lights output and mine even came with a free front light. All you have to do is press the up button for a couple of seconds and the display back light comes on together with the headlight.