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The only way to compare them is to use Watt hours. I'm not here to argue. I'm here to learn and share knowledge as I'm sure are most people. You can take or leave the information I have offered, but either way it is factual.

I don't really need to formulate much of a reply since you've revealed your own lack of knowledge there. Tell me though, How would you compare a 36v 16Ah battery with a 48V 12Ah battery?

Nonsense. It's the ONLY way you can compare packs of varying voltages and capacities. Also, don't confuse Watt hours with Watts. The first is a measurement of capacity, the second is a measure of power output.

This arguement makes no sense. In your example, current EPAC law would not be affected since the offending vehicle would not be an EPAC.

The police, the crown prosecution, the courts and the government.

The law is very black & white in its definition. Anything over 15.5mph (17mph, including 10% speedo inaccuracy allowance) and it's no longer classed as a bicycle.

That's the point - it's no longer legally classed as a bike, but instead an unregistered moped.

Meh. Tomorrow's chip paper. If this was ever going to be dealt with, it'd be done so at the source (retailer). IMO, unless individuals ride around like idiots, they won't recieve any trouble. Martin of 50Cycles might be feeling a little nervous next week though.

Soundwave, I think you're getting a little confused regarding cell and pack capacity. A single cell can either be used to add extra voltage, or extra capacity, but not both. The cells you link to are 2600mAh 3.7V cells arranged in a 2S2P configuration to give 5200mAh 7.4V in total. Your cells...

An asymmetric lens will provide even illumination of a 2D plane, e.g. a wall as in the photo posted above by Gringo. However, it still proves problematic when lighting a 3D plane, due to light falloff (inverse square law - double the distance equals a quarter the light level). What you get is...

IMO, a new bike almost never makes sense for an electric conversion. The warranty is as good as worthless after the bike has been modified and there are plenty of great used frames avaliable at great savings.

Indeed, only about a 5% difference, but having the facts to make a balanced decision is never a bad thing. I personally would prefer the gain in efficiency and torque and would drop from 26" to 24" if I ever had to replace my rear wheel. If I only rode tarmac I would be running a 20" rear in a...

FYI, your hub motor will spend more time opperating inefficiently, the larger the wheel you use. If you can avoid a lager wheel, both your motor and battery will experience less operational stress. Also, at any given power level, a smaller wheel will give better acceleration at the cost of a...

It's simple enough to learn. If you have the will, you will find a way.

You need to run a supply from your bike battery (usually easily done) and then use a light that will accept the correct voltage, or use a buck converter to power whatever light you wish.

Why does everyone dick about with auxiliary battery packs when you've got huge bike batteries from which to power your lights?

Please see my previous (cross-posted) reply. Someone will be able to recommend a good source. Ebay or AliExpress is most likely not it though.

Highest capacity authentic 18650 cell at this moment in time is the Panasonic NCR18650G (3600mAh), although I am unable to recommend a specific source.

No reason that you couldn't, but lithium tech is better in almost every way. NiMh are 1.2V nominal. 18650 Li-Ion are 3.7V nominal. 18650 has a much greater energy density too.

Probably not as much as you think. I bought one ages ago with a mind to fit 2x 6S 20C packs either side, but it would only take one (published dimensions don't take into account the wedge shape). Undeterred, I cut the phone holder out and sewed on a couple of small camera bags instead. You might...