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Just a thought......I wonder have you a phase failure.....This often causes the motor to shudder and reduces power by 66%. On a direct drive, pushing the wheel forward often causes the wheel to turn at reduced power but with a geared motor, this will only work in the reverse direction due to...

Just bought a xf07 front wheel hub kit from them. Absolutely no problems. Took a week to deliver. Has a kt dual voltage 36/48 controller, Lcd5 and 270 rpm (at 36v) motor. Cost me 186 euro. No delivery or customs charges (to Ireland in my case). Would be very fast at 48v (40km/hr) but I am...

Hi. Anyone know the rpm of the newer yose 250w kits? I am in a position at the moment that I have both a 2-3 year old yose 250 front wheel (700c)and an xf07 side by side and am comparing both. Both wheel hub motors actually look identical with identical patterns. The only noticeable difference...

Hi. I think this situation has similarities to the Pendleton upgrade. I think if you change the display and controller to for example the kt version, you may also need to change the 3 in 1 signal cable for a 4 in 1 to (as well as possibly brake levers) as I think the '790' has a different...

Is it the left or right crank? If its the left, it should be easy enough to get a replacement crank e.g in your local bicycle shop etc.. Getting a right crank (without chainwheel) is more difficult. It is possible to use a standard alloy or steel crank on right side by grinding off the chainring.

I fitted one to a hybrid frame and hence no problems. But I do remember looking at a Chinese installation video at that time ( I cant find it now) that showed the installer using a heavy tool and giving a few whacks to 'dimple' the frame at that problem point on the chainstay (which would...

Hi and welcome. You have brought up three separate issues in your inquiry which I had when fitting a rear wheel to an older bike. The first is about stretching the frame which I agree with you should be avoided if possible. However there is a bit of a 'spring' in the frame and its often...

I think we had a discussion somewhere before about this. I think your hub has a two stage nylon helical gear reduction and some reported a freewheel time of about 10 seconds. May be less in your case with smaller wheel (less inertia). Some of the other larger wheeled straight cut nylon gears (no...

The high level (flashing on its own) is the 'Motor hall signal level', hence my recommendation to check cables and connectors first.

Be sure to check that the motor connectors are pushed fully in. There is a cable running from the controller/battery end to the motor wheel and there is usually connectors at both ends.

I think the Crosscity has a 790 display. The fault code are as below. You need to say exactly which lights are flashing. Light Combination Definition indicator light flash(LOW level) abnormal current level indicator light flash(MED level) abnormal throttle level indicator light...

8pin has 2 extra wires for throttle . Also throttle will work with only certain displays e.g. vlcd, and brake cutoffs usually provided in this case. Personally, I'm glad I selected the throttle option as my legs get tired with torque sensor.

Just one further comment. The above is straightforward and works well with the common 2 wire mechanical switch type brake sensors. There is a 3 wire hall switch version that is a little more complicated and its possible to do damage if you short the 5 volts..

Yes. I have done that and it worked fine for me (like a motorbike 'kill' switch). Its important to know that although it stops the motor, the controller will still draw a small current that can run down the battery over a few days, so you still need to switch off the bike in the normal way when...

The 9999 reminds me of the millenium bug problem. Another thing that perhaps some older displays ( as well as older laptops and pc) had was a small internal button cell that was used to keep a small memory used for settings etc and an internal clock powered. The button cell was designed to last...

A wild guess here but 6000 mile is almost 10000km. Many go back to zero at 10000km but some (e.g LCD3) will keep the hours. Perhaps some internal counter actually counts in Km but converts to miles afterwards for the display. Seems weird but anything is possible.

Hi. How did you measure the current. The meter itself can introduce an error when reading current at such small voltage differences and you need to take into account the resistance of the measuring device, leads and probes at the scale that you were using. For example, some Fluke meters...

That setting makes no difference in my case. It has been reported that on older units it worked but was deliberately locked in the more recent controller (but not in the vlcd5) to prevent users from turning up the power excessively as this resulted in warranty claims.

Two things I would suspect. 1. Recheck the 8 pin connector as there may be problems on tx or rx wires. Make sure no bent pins and connector is fully in. Also make sure there is no shorts /contacts at the damaged speed sensor connector. 2. It is possible to damage the calibration of the torque...

If the rim does not have eyelets, you can drill (5mm) or file the hole a little bigger. It would of been great if you had the exact replacement, as you can often replace the spoke without even deflating or removing the tyre (or the wheel with v brakes) by reusing the old nipple.