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I notice some of the local postmen here in Ireland are using heavy duty cargo Radkutsche Musketiers bikes. Perhaps its the shape of things to come. https://www.greenaer.ie/product/radkutsche-musketier/

Going on your figures above, thing are not bad. You have plenty of clearance on the non drive side, so you can move the rim over in that direction by reducing the dish. I always do the dishing with the wheel on the bike and tyres at full pressure (with double walled rims only). This can be...

Hi. Looking at photo. The freewheel doesent look straight but it could be just the camera (or my eyes). The 10 speed needs a lot of room. Is the axle level? Even 1 mm off level will trow off the wheel by 3mm. Check that axle fits well into dropout especially on non drive side. Had you to file...

Take a similar photo but from the drive/cassette side. I usually try to space the wheel to get the smallest outside sprocket as close to the frame as possible but with enough clearence that the chain doesn't rub off frame. Also, its possible to fit the special anti rotation/torque washer on the...

It depends on many factors and especially the weight of the rider. I think the spec of your hub has approx 42mm flanges and already 5.5mm offset. Increasing the dish/offset by even 1.5mm to 7mm total results in a rim offset relative to flanges of 14mm and 28mm approx and this results in a...

Reducing the dish (moving the rim more over to the non drive side by loosening the drive side spokes/tightening the non drive spokes) makes the wheel more symmetrical and hence stronger. I always try to reduce the dish on rear wheels if possible. I would center the wheel if it reduces the dish...

When you remove the tube, with the valve hole downwards, the nipples can be shaken down and poked out.

Perhaps post a photo. Sheldon Brown below explains the difference between 'freewheel' with 'cassette'. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html

One thing I notice and think is well worth considering is the cadence of the rider. If the cadence (and therefore the motor) can be kept spinning fast enough (>70 rpm), the motor seems to stay cool. PS. re the magnets, the motor is an 'inrunner' in that the rotating magnets are enclosed inside...

I agree 100% here. In particular, with old rusty frames, the seat post can be rusted into the seat tube, similarly handlebars quill rusted into forks, bottom bracket bearing shells rusted etc. Get these sorted (if necessary) first.

Re 'Gribble' and 'watts', dont forget that the function of the electric motor is to convert the electric power (watts = volts x amps) input into mechanical power output (watts =Torque x RPM x 0.104 ). And of course they both are not the same in that many electrical watts can be lost in heat. So...

You need to understand the difference/relationship between power, torque and rpm.. Its the magnetic field of the current (amps) that produce the torque. Its the voltage (emf/ electric motive force) thats necessary to push the current through the motor coils (and overcomes the back emf which...

The Bafang BBS02 750W/48V can be got cheaper or you could buy from UK supplier with hopefully some technical backup. I dont know what the difference is between the two models. (g340 vs BBS02B)

Hi. You may have over-tightened that spoke at some stage. If you need to overtighten a spoke to true a wheel, you need to stop and loosen the adjacent two spokes a little. I once fitted an M5 washer under the (13g) nipple in a similar situation and it worked. This was tricky because the rim was...

Left hand pedal normally has left hand thread as explained below. https://blog.everydayscientist.com/?p=2655

Something like this...

Some quick photos. The 'C' cover over the pas unit is homemade.

My kit came ready to go set up for 'torque' control, 26 inch wheel, km and no speed restrictions. Under normal conditions, I usually use either pas level 3 or 4, with the occasional burst of throttle when required. You can (for example) set c5 to 9 to reduce the controller current by approx 10%...

Hi. I bought the front 26 inch wheel version and fitted to bike with 'budget' steel front suspension forks. My intended use is for a winter bike/hack as I live very close to many off road trails. I have tested and clocked up about 200km so far. (I also have other bikes) Works perfect but the...

I think yours is a different problem in that in your case it appears to be just the crank arm coming loose on the spindle. The solution then would be to just replace the left side crank arm . I think the relatively common standard square taper(170mm ?) crank arm will fit so it should be easy...