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Like many of us aging ebikers, Cadence only wants to get his leg over. The only problem with cheap (and some expensive) dropper posts is that if you pull the trigger before sitting on the low seat, you won't be wanting to get your leg over for a long time.

C4 should be 3 to make the throttle legal. The setting is P4=1 and C4 =3 to get 4 mph walk assist (completely independent) plus throttle power only when you're pedalling. P1 is nothing to do with wheel size. You set the wheel size in the basic settings. P1 tells the controller the number of...

When you do the cowboy mount, it's really embarrassing when the saddle hooks the leg of your shorts. When I wear loose jeans, even they get caught on the saddle somehow when I try to get my leg over, and I have to abort sometimes as many as three times in a row. It won't be long before I need...

Basically, the throttle becomes a level 5 button. Whenever you press the lever, you get level 5 and when you let go of it, power returns to whatever pedal assist setting you were on. Example 1: you're pedalling along on level 1 getting just enough power to help you on a flat road. You come to a...

Thanks, I might take you up on that offer. Hold on for now while I do some tests. The problem I had is that there are at least 4 versions of that display, and three of them are almost identical in appearance. The differences are on the back, which they rarely show in the listings. The KM319 is...

What's that white mark accross the bottom corner of your controller? How did it get there? There's another one higher up at a slightly different angle. The LED display works independent from the controller. It has its own battery supply and would be fully functional even if you smashed the...

He's been moved to the general chat forum because most of his posts were political, so should be in the ebike stuff. Maybe he's sulking now, or maybe he never existed. Was he just an engagement bot, to increase forum activity for statistics, but instead of getting engagement, his political...

It's not my bike now, and I'm not sure the guy wants to pay for anything like that. It'll be similar to the 20" folder I'm swapping over to KT, which is a nightmare. I don't really fancy going through all that again. 4 hours to get the BB off so that I can change the incompatible pedal sensor.

I think I have a couple of old KM displays. Maybe a C500 and C600 or something like that. I had rats get in my shed and they pissed over everything, so I'm not sure whether they still work. That's my task for Monday, assuming I finish the 24v folder I'm converting to dual voltage 24v/36v, which...

Are they tide marks on the controller. Looking at those and the corrosion on the screws and plates, it looks like the bottom corner of the controller has been under water a lot and at least one time half of the whole box has been submerged. Is that right? I can tell you now that you'll be very...

After a lot of research, I found out that it's a King Meter T319. I have a spare 24v one off a folder. When I check the markings on the back, they have the wheel size in the code, so I guess that the speed limit is controlled by this device, which is a real problem. I found an Aliexpress seller...

My latest haul from Topbikekit for a grand total of £201 inc. shipping. The cassette side-plate is for my Q128 motor, as it's become a bit intermittent after 11 years and I can't be bothered to keep pouring the oil in. I also got a couple of BBs for about £4 each. The rest is for a project...

The motors last forever. A control system and battery upgrade converts the bike into a really nice machine that's a joy to ride, and 36v batteries are often cheaper than 24v ones with the same capacity. the difference in price can pay for the controller. It's definitely an upgrade worth doing on...

My aprentice fell off his bike at low speed. Afterwards, his bike became intermittent then stopped working. The zero LED is blinking. IIRC, someone else had that error code, I found the manual, but the zero LED blinking was not included in the list. Can anybody remember the thread or the...

Can you show the controller label and a picture of ALL the wires and connectors spread out so that we can see what it is. Water shouldn't damage anything unless you got in in the 5-way connector that goes to the 880 panel. Before anything, check that the motor connector is in ALL THE WAY TO...

If ever you need a battery for a 24v e-bike, it's generallly better to use the opportunity to upgrade to 36v. The cost of a 36v controller is pretty insignificant compared with the cost of the battery, and the result will give you more range, more power for hills, plus a better cruising speed...

We haven't a clue what a model 18 is. Last time I heard, it was a Norton from the 30's, in which case I would have said to try draining the carburettor. Showing a cryptic photo of the corner of an LCD doesn't really help. One general piece of advice that works for any ebike is that if the motor...

There are 4 different bases that have 3 or 4 different batteries that connect to them, and there are three different connectors, which makes a lot of possible different combinations; however, one of the bases doesn't have a controller, so can be eliminated. There are definitely two different...

It already has a motor on the front. It only needs a battery and controller to make it go. In fact it would probably go with just a battery and a switch. Making it go is not going to be a problem, but making it stop is. Look at the brakes!

It doesn't have sufficient strength, especially when you consider the reason for why the lug snapped off. IMHO, you could use JB Weld, but only to glue the lug back on, then it would need drilling and pinning with maybe four 2mm pins. For that, you'd have to remove the motor from its housing...