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Given it's the same key-switch/display/throttle as the D2, this may help:

It's supposed to do that - 1 LED shows the battery is on, not state of charge. Quick press shows you battery charge level, 5 sec press shows the health (how many charge cycles it's undergone). Press the power button for 3+ seconds. If that doesn't work, plug in the charger. It's all in the manual.

It's usually a process of elimination; the battery, motor phase/motor sensor wires, PAS and brake sensors should be quite obvious... then see what connectors are left. If you're stuck, email service@fiido.com; they're a helpful bunch. EDIT: This video from Fiido's After-Sales Service...

You are of course quite right, I do vaguely remember it now.... the D1 was a short lived single speed predecessor to the D2/s. The throttle you need is here.

Yes. Some bike makers offer their own versions too (Wisper, Bosch etc).

There are a few ways of doing that. This Bestek pure-sine inverter is proven to work well, you can buy a 12v to 42v charger to run directly from a 12v LA or lithium car/boat/campervan battery (a more efficient method minimising conversion losses), or use a stand-alone power-pack (aka solar...

There's no such bike. Do you mean an M1, T1, or maybe D11? AFAIK, like most (all?) makers Fiido don't publish wiring diagrams, but most of it is pretty straightforward. If you need a spare/new/replacement throttle, the best place to buy one is Fiido themselves; not expensive and the...

There are a few threads on the forum here where Carrera owners have discussed and used an Arduino to generate that pulse/add throttles. Yes, that's member/manufacturer Whisper (who contribute here) where each individual bike has to undergo an inspection/test/approval... available as an extra...

Hopefully others with more experience of this system will comment, but my thoughts from reading prior posts are: The plastic fatigues through dirt/stress/age and breaks. I'd think keeping it clean will help reduce fatigue/stress/dirt build-up and thus failure. As above. The more dirt, the...

It's a shame you didn't register here and ask before buying the bike; sorry if this is going to dampen your enthusiasm... you may have better luck than the majority. The Suntour HESC system is/has been riddled with design/functionality issues ever since it was introduced as a search here on the...

I don't agree at all. With the effort you're prepared to put in, I'd suggest an ALP will be fine because the gearing is working with you whereas on your old hub-drive it wasn't. I've cycled the Strawberry Line and then around Cheddar Gorge with my Bafang crank-drive (80nm) which I managed fine...

I'd guess that's because it'll be a cheap speed-capped controller... i.e. even in setting 1 it'll still be full power albeit to a lower than maximum speed. You'd need to change the controller to a torque simulation one to get a lower level of assist power.

Here're the error codes for King-Meter models 790 and 791. There have been a couple of recent 790 occurrences where the problem was nothing more than moisture (if your bike is used in the rain or stored in a damp shed/garage).

44 years on from the original, Evans Cycles have revisited Sir Ridley Scott’s iconic 1973 Hovis advert. The original Hovis boy Carl Barlow, now a 57-year-old retired firefighter, is seen conquering Gold Hill in Shaftesbury, Dorset, thanks to the power of an electric bike.

You might be able to solder the shunt in the controller (if it isn't potted). That increases current (torque/grunt, not speed) which might be useful for hill climbing?

I'm not overly familiar with the two displays you're using (others here who are will likely be along shortly), but as a rule you can't swap displays willy-nilly. With few exceptions, the display talks to the controller using brand specific protocols (language), so generally displays are not...

If you search for and follow the OP's subsequent threads, you'll read that (although he did re-cell his battery) he dried his bike out and that seems to have corrected the problem(s) he was having with the display.

The guy presenting that video represents (sells) a number of different brands and runs some of their facebook groups too. He does tend to gloss things up a bit. I took his "spins 4 times faster" to simply mean it's a geared hub against a direct drive - nothing special as such. The engine-X may...

If the scooter is that new(ish), maybe the warranty is transferable. If that's the case the seller/dealer/manufacturer should test or replace the battery.

Sounds to me like you have either a very unbalanced or worn/tired/knackered battery where one or more cells or a string of cells aren't holding as much charge as the others. When other cell strings are full and charging stops that string isn't as full and pulling the whole pack down. That...