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The supplier I used doesn't do it anymore, but I'm pretty sure it's this one.

Apart from @Sturmey's suggestion above... Halfords still sell original replacements for your bike/early Pendletons here. And there's ebikebatteries (well regarded on this forum) who sell a version here. This version claims some ability to recharge even those batteries that otherwise appear...

Hi Gazza You need to be more specific: Do you mean a 5-pin for a Pendleton battery that looks like this one?

Aww, come off it @guerney. A quick Google search shows plenty of Dahon bikes snapping in half too. There's a couple of interesting articles too discussing/showing where stress points of a bike frame are, and all folding bikes are (can be) especially prone to failure for obvious reasons.

It used to be the Americans complaining that the early D bikes were set-up wrongly (in their eyes) with the front brake being on the right and not the left as they are used to. The X has frame magnets fitted; the issue is the D frame isn't threaded for them. I just use a bungee cord which keeps...

I probably am. But it's not my life on the line when the spokes shear and the wheel collapses on a fast downhill descent!

AFAIK all UK versions are supplied with the brakes fitted the right way around. Is your shop an official supplier (they're not listed), or selling grey imports? Fiido do now make a rear carrier especially for the D21/D11 which can be ordered from their website. For a short while Fiido supplied...

What you see in the suppliers pictures is exactly what you get; a brand new replacement battery with nearly 50% more capacity, giving you nearly 50% more range. That's because they're using higher capacity cells. By "without shell" they mean it slides into your existing carrier; it doesn't...

This doesn't make any sense to me. How can the rim be true and concentric when the spokes have been bent when previously they weren't, and they're not supposed to be? Clearly the spokes have undergone some compression to bend them, so the rim cannot now be true/concentric. Logic suggests you've...

You being happy with your purchase is I think all that matters. Even though my first and third e-bikes are "unlocked" to 20mph and 18mph respectively and I know I'm technically breaking the law, I still very much enjoy my second TranzX motored e-bike even though it's resolutely locked at...

That's a torque sensor, not a Cadence as I'd assumed. You say there are no error codes showing, so I assume the display is working just no codes showing. If so the battery/power is working, just no assist. If even the display doesn't come on, there have been known/prior issues with the battery...

It could be enclosed or open. Post a picture.

Have you checked the sensor on the crank/bottom bracket? It needs to be clean, the magnet disc turns with the crank (when the pedals are turned) and correctly spaced, about 1mm. If it's covered in crud or been disturbed you won't get any assist, so it's the first item to check.

I have 3 e-bikes. The first uses a Bafang crank-drive motor. All parameters are easily accessible either with PC software or with an Android App (Speeed) - both easy to obtain/free. The user can change not only the top speed limit, but how power is applied, how many levels of assist there...

The firmware is pre-programmed at the factory. The days of manufacturers leaving the parameter setting menus open are now largely gone - at least for store-bought bikes like Halfords, Decathlon, Pure. Even where a parameter menu is left accessible, it'll often be restricted. Chinese makers...

Why? Pashley's own electric version of the Pronto model uses an 80Nm crank drive conversion. I'd think they made that choice because the bike in un-electrified form uses a 3-speed gear in the rear hub, and a drum brake in the front hub making it not an ideal choice for swapping out wheel sets...

If when you put your bike in the lowest assist level and cycle gently along a flat road the battery stays on, but if you then put the bike into a higher/highest assist level and give it some welly the battery dies/cuts out, it likely is a knackered/sagging battery. Many of the lower-cost 24v...

Others will likely know better than me, but I always understood that to mean the motor has overheated. It should reset and work again once it's cooled down.

I'm not clear - your bike is now out of your 1 year warranty? Mainstream brands usually hold a healthy stock of parts either here in the UK or easily/quickly obtainable from within the EU. Rich Bit state they hold bikes in the UK for shipment, but in several cases I know of resellers like that...

Here're some useful YouTube videos from HomeLeHat - a Fiido D11 rider with 6000km on the clock. These are all quite recent, there are others he's done on his D11 and he may add more over time, but these are the ones that seem to answer the burning questions that other members have asked here on...