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Some Panasonic batteries have temperature sensors that are monitored externally during charging.

You could. It's not exactly difficult.

Generally, it's nothing to worry about, but it's different on a rack behind a vehicle, where they get a continuous soaking from every direction, so in that situation, I'd tape a bin bag around it.

Last time I looked for a previous thread, there were some of the narrow ones. I think there might be some links if you can find it. When I check today, I don't see the narrow ones. You'll have to search hard and use creative search criteria. I often have better success searching AliExpress with...

I'm pretty sure that my demand for electricity hasn't gone up faster than gas. I would say definitely the opposite. I now only use 5 units of electricity per day, every day the same. My demand for gas has increased because I have my house warmer in the winter due to getting older. I haven't seen...

Just looking at the picture of yours and without testing anything, I would have said that yours switches on the positive and the Out (+) is for the output positive wire.

The output terminal should switch off when there's a logical fault with the cell-pack. You can test that by disconnecting the sense wires not shown in your pictures. If it doesn't switch off, don't use it for output. Switching is done on the negative side. The positive normally runs straight...

4 days!

You won't find "Volt" batteries. The ones on AliExpress are generic unbranded ones and about 1/3 the price.

The KT settings are P4=1 and C4 =3. It gives you a throttle that gives 4 mph without pedalling, max speed when pedalling (15.5 mph set) and maximum power when pedalling. That way, you get start assist and an instant max power over-ride for whatever pedal assist level you have set, so you can...

I've tried controllers that give power in proportion to pedal speed, and I found them absolutely diabolical. In any gear, you start to pedal faster and faster as more power comes until you have to change up, which reduces pedal speed, which reduces power, so you don't have enough power to...

All I see right now in post #58 is a label.

In the normal situation with a non-zero setting for P2, the speed displayed comes from the speed sensor and wheel size. The cut-off speed is calculated from the hall signals, the reduction ratio and the wheel size. To make the two the same, you have to adjust P1. You cannot adjust the speed...

Show a picture of the whole thing that fits on my page so that I can see what it is. I can't see any of your other pictures because they're too big.

What bike is it? 135mm is very long - not a common size. What's the reason for needing such a long one?

You can find them on Aliexpress. Search for thin or narrow silver fish battery.

If the damage is where you show the cable sheath is open, you don't need a new cable. You need to find which wire is broken, cut it open and solder the two ends together. If you don't know how to test, ask and I'll explain. When you say it doesn't work, which symptoms do you have that brings...

Some controllers require a high pulse, others require a low pulse from the speed signal. You have to experiment to see what works.

You can buy motor cables from ebay; however, it's very difficult to get the cable through the axle, so you should only attempt the repair if it's absolutely necessary, like when the cable is damaged enough to prevent function. Yours looks OK. Does it still work?

You're replying to an AI bot that has the A but not the I.