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I can't see any good connections! Twisted wires with or without heatshrink are not good connections even for testing. Use proper connectors, butt splices or solder and heatshrink.

Another conversion fire https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/cje0d41gwwjo

The clip is to hold it together until it is installed so you don't lose everything again before you install it.

The charger has nothing to do with Bafang, they only make the motor. The charger is related to the battery but I wouldn't expect that they are ever calibrated together.

That type of patch lock doesn't actually harden so is relatively easy to undo unlike a lot of the liquid threadlocks which can be impossible to release.

Don't use threadlock, if the arm is coming loose it either is damaged or not tight enough (or both). The torque I mentioned before is approx 30ft lbs so is the equivalent of hanging 30 pounds (weight) on a key that is a foot long. If it helps you visualise what you are doing then us a pipe that...

If you can tighten it 'very tight' there is nothing wrong with the threads. The problem is usually that the taper on the (usually) aluminium crank arm gets distorted when there is any movement. This means the tapers aren't the same so won't lock.

Unfortunately the likelihood is the crank arm is damaged if it has been loose for any length of time. If it isn't damaged then torquing it up properly should do it. Clean and degrease the arm and the spindle then tighten it to 40Nm, ride the bike for about 30 miles then re torque. Do it again...

There are a few rides and pics around this area of this thread. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/emtb-owners-photo-and-ride-thread.24089/page-103#post-447070

The only reports I have seen regarding bike battery fires was one shop in a city a few years ago where what you might call conventional ebikes are used. Up here in the mountains hub drive bikes don't exist and mid motor conversions are extremely rare ( I haven't actually seen one). All of the...

ALL of the thousands of Ebikes I see round here have 'Manufacturer specific' communications between the battery / charger / bike. Many of these bikes owned by locals are used as transport (maybe because it is safe to leave it outside the shop / restaurant etc) on a daily basis.

Judging by the witness marks on the crank you are probably correct. Some crank extractors require leaving the bolt in but loose to enable you to apply pressure in the correct place (don't know if that is still the case but was certainly the way mine was in the mid 70's when I bought my first '...

If you can't screw it in 3 turns (minimum) by hand don't put a spanner on it was the mantra I was taught as an apprentice in the last century. Still holds true for anything mechanical made now.

Looks like the tool has been cross threaded to me.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cj9jd4v4y19o

You may find that on the drive side the torque arm needs to be outboard of the derailleur mount to get all of the gears. Depends how thick your torque arm is and how much adjustment there is in the derailleur.

I'm sure I have seen info on Giant batteries on there some time ago, I know Giant have their own control system but that is the only resource I know of for that sort of info.

I'm sure you will find the answer to your question here. https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?forums/yamaha.46/ It is German but most browsers these days have the facility to translate.

Does no one know that the best way to break a taper is with a shock load. Assemble the crank puller as advised but instead of pulling it with an ever longer lever just tighten it well with a correctly sized spanner then give the end of the tool a firm tap with a hammer, tighten the tool a bit...

To get full power you need to be pushing fairly hard on the pedals. Having said that it would get you up that hill relatively easily because of the gears. It depends really why you want a bike, if you want to improve your stamina then a torque sensor could be the way to go. If when you first get...