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20A is 20A, whether you get it thru 6 FET's or 12 FET's. If that C5 setting works as advertised, the Q100H should be OK. I agree it's not torque simulation, but it is a smoother delivery of power than some other controllers. I've gotten used to the KT feeling and the cadence sensors on other...

I own a 750W BBS02 and power it with a 48V 12AH 30Q based battery. Range mainly depends on how fast you go and whether the motor assists you or vice versa. As mentioned earlier, you have around 500 watt-hrs, and many people burn between 10 and 20 wh/mile.

PSWpower was selling 20A sensored torque simulation controllers two years ago, as I have one from them, but I agree that they don't sell them now.

The C5 parameter, if you use the LCD3 display with the KT controller, has settings that can derate the current from 50% to 90% of max. I've never tried it out though.

Well, I did try it on mine. Put in the jumper, lifted the rear wheel, and my motor kicked in when I cranked the pedals. Also seen one video on youtube which confirm this works. If your seller is close enough, maybe he can prove it runs for you.

Looks nice! With your steel fork, I would feel confident with one set of torque arms, but two are better.

By the way, for me, if I remember right, the cheapest to USA was DHL, usually mucg less than China Post. The latter service, which I get on ebay stuff from China is usually 4 weeks or more.

I've bought three 20A sine wave controllers from PSWpower. I always picked the cheapest shipping to the USA. Shipping was less than a week after they sent it. When they were elifebike on ebay, shipping was free. I have a battery from 2015 that is still putting out good power. Also a little 10A...

What you are doing is to connect battery power to the controller's start pin. This is the way most controllers start. I verified it on my bike. Jumper the two pins. Spin crank. Zoom zoom. You get some default PAS level, and I didn't ride the bike to see. I used an insulated jumper. Don't want...

Maybe I can allay your fears about the battery. I own a BBS02, programmed for 750W. I believe the max current is 25A. I normally run it on a 48V battery rated for 30A, but just for fun today, I set it up on a 48V4AH battery and a 48V 6AH battery. I found that the bike would still hit around...

My new, out of box TSDZ2 is also quite stiff. We'll see when it gets installed next year.

I run two Q100's on 6FET sinewave controllers siilar to the S06 sold by BMSbattery, and another one on the 6FET KT square wave controller . These are dual 36/48 units, No loss of sync. If DVE8H were still around, I think he would point the finger at your S09 sensorless controller. I have one...

You already spliced it, but those three heavier phase wires always were a concern for me, given that the cable could flex, and solder is brittle. I would try to butt the two phase wires with some finer wire wrapped around both. It's like tying flies if you're a fly fisherman. Can't do it w/o a...

I like theTenergy meters that anotherkiwi posted. Not really over the top, as they only cost $10USD and a 5 week wait on ebay. Since my ebikes have connectors on the battery cable, I used it to assess my battery usage. I've also put it between my charger and the battery. I've always found that...

If your motor doesn't have Hall sensors or a speed sensor, you can leave out the six small wires when splicing. Here's a 9 pin extension cable...

Many 36V only controllers will operate on 48V, but may have filter capacitors only rated for 48V. These will fail early if run on a 48V battery. One has to look inside for a 63V rating. Another caution is that the low voltage alarm on these controllers is hard wired for 30V, and you don't want...

30AH out of 9P = 3.3AH cell capacity, 6.6A per cell. 69AH out of 28P = 2.1AH cell capacity, 2,9 A per cell The unknown cells, in my opinion, are likely from the laptop world, and while they work, may not hold up to the rigors of ebiking, even though there are a staggering 28 in parallel.

Motors that spin with no load and stutter on the ground usually are having battery issues. Maybe that rocking Swytch connector on the handle bars had a dirty contact. Try switching the battery box from the good kit to the bad one. If problem moves with battery box, you know what part needs to...

That's not a bad price. It cost me about $550 USD to electrify my folders with Q100H motor, LCD display, 20A sine wave controller, custom made 30 cell (Samsung GA) 36V10.2AH battery, 20" rim, and nice Saphim Strong spokes. I spoked the wheel myself. I could have bought a complete low cost...

I bought the LCD last March from PSWpower. Used with their 20A sinewave controller.