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I have bought three of these PSWPower sine wave controllers, and one was no good, while the other two worked fine. The bad one just ran rough at all speeds under load. Worked great when just spinning the motor.

You can get a throttle and new controller, but unless your present controller has a speed restrictor, there's no speed increase. For that you have to go to 48V, and the direct path to that is a 48V battery that fits your cradle. I would estimate that ebike around 30 km/hour on 36V? Then 40...

Emily, we all took you literally when you said controller, battery and motor had to be replaced. You bought it used? Get the new controller if possible and upgrade the battery when you can. A rattle could just mean some foam shrunk. You'd ruin the Gazelle putting a kit on it. It will pedal...

Nice bike per this video: It will be hard to replicate the same biking experience with a kit, as your Gazelle has a torque sensor pedal, plus the integrated light. There are four components to an ebike. -motor -controller/display -battery/charger -connecting wires And I would be surprised...

If that is the latest picture, you can't expect the controller to work if you haven't repaired the Hall sensor wires. I don't think you have proved anything yet. I see you have a very common multimeter. I always used to chuckle because it has a built-in beta tester for transistors. I may be one...

I bought something similar, with the same Brainpower name. Mine was set up for 48V only and would not run on 36V, but I found a pad on the circuit board that if jumpered to ground, allowed dual voltage operation. Maybe that is how this guy sells them. I bought mine from a shop named PhoebeLiu on...

Yes, I pulled out my unused elifebike controller. It uses the 810led. Jumpered the correct two wires and saw that the throttle was able to spin the motor without the 810 connected, so that that suggests you have indeed proved your controller is likely dead,

You need a easy volt meter lesson. Can you post a pic of the front panel or link to a image of it?

John, If the motor cable is a factory cable with the male pins, then I like running a longer cable with the female socket from the controller to the motor, making my solder joins inside the controller box. This has the advantage of simple twist joints inside the box, which are protected against...

Matthew, do you have a voltmeter? Before writing off the controller, check the red and black wires that you cut to see if there's 5V power for the Hall Sensors. That means you have to be able to start the controller, and that requires connecting up the 810LED display. You will have to press...

That's not 5 volts. It's battery power, either 36V or 48V nominal.. Connecting those two wires starts the controller. On my PSW contollers, those are also 1 & 2, and the vendor ships them with a jumper plug, 1-2 and 4-5.

Thanks for suggesting for a systematic approach, Neath. I think the motor has relatively high gearing. I will work down from 255,

If it used to work, it's not a wire sequencing problem. I must be lucky. I've bought five different brands of controllers and never seen a mismatch in the motor phase wire colors or the hall sensor colors. Never owned a cheap DD motor though. I've heard that clunks happen when a magnet falls...

I am running a newly purchased unit with a geared no name (well they're all no name) motor where I know nothing about its gearing or the number of magnets.Hence P1 setting is guesswork. What I've noticed is that the speed is accurate when coasting. Under acceleration, the display jumps between...

You're closer than me! Mine says 25A on the label. The thing is almost a foot long, just to hold all them MOSFET's. Well, that's rounding error. Maybe it's 7 inches, almost twice as long as the little PSWpower controller anyway. A third of the case is really empty too. I gotta use it one of...

Have you tried C5=03, which the manual says is 50% of the current? I haven't installed my S12S controller yet, which is 20A too.

In my experience, and I had three wattmeters, none of them read the same voltage when I strung them in series. They did read the same AH within +/- .1 AH.

That would be the P2 setting, which would be 0 for what you describe, D8veh, but mine is set to 1. If I walk the bike around when it's working, I get 2 mph.

PSWpower sells KT units. By the way, speedometer starting to go flakey when coasting with the PSW sine wave controller. Sometimes flips to zero. Comes back on power reset. Perhaps I'll mount a flasher LED on the white wire and see if it's wheel or controller.

I already have the LCD's on the bikes. You can hear the Q100 motors singing from six feet behind. Other motor/controller combos have not been so loud.