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If you can't solve yoor problem, get a new controller and LCD(KT brand recommended); stick the controller in a tool bag either under the seat or in the frame; and run the battery wires directly from the front bag to the controller with an XT60 connector at the bag. When the battery is knackered...

It's 14S.

Not legal in Europe and UK. Why did he choose a 14Sbattery? He's nuts. Also, no pedal assist!

It might be a good idea to explain which version of Swytch kit you have. As it's a new post, I was assuming one of the latest ones.

Bring back the trolleybuses. Who remembers them? I don't remember any catching fire and I don't think they had to stop to charge up.

Download the lcd manual and do the settings.

It's simple. Instead of spending money on repairing the roads, they use the money to propagate their climate change doctrine.

Nicely explained here:

If youn want a bit more power, it would be better to get a bike with a 48v system, especially if you want one with larger wheels. This one looks OK. The battery is only 7.8AH, so range would be around 30 miles, but it's a standard battery. You can buy bigger ones for less than £200 that slot...

They would be too short. In case you still haven't got it: Disc + spacer = screws too short No disc, no spacer = screws too long Disc only = screws correct Spacer only = Screws correct You can.of course, use screws with a different length, then you need to make your own arrangements to make...

Did you check that the motor connector reaches the line?

The spacer is for the screws when you don't have the rotor fitted. If you put the screws in without the spacer and rotor, they're too long, so they can jam the motor or even damage the windings.

This one is 48v so should have a lot more torque for hill-climbing than the previous one. Free shipping too. You might find that there's some tax to add on at checkout...

https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005007669466457.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21GBP%21352.19%21352.19%21%21%21%21%21%40%2112000041727316482%21ppc%21%21%21&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gcl...

You're assuming that those cleverer would want to make the spending more efficient.

The charger couldn't have caused that if the cells were in balance, since the BMS would shut off charging at around 42.5v, so instead of 1.76 watts of heat, you'd have got 2.02W. Even if you had used a 48v charger by mistake and your BMS failed to shut off, you'd only get 3.26W. That's not...

Yes, it can get the speed signal from the hall sensors, but only when the motor is turning with power, so you won't see your fastest speed when going down your favourite hill.

Thread on X. The comments are interesting. https://x.com/KashPatelX/status/1892375738642247706

I only gave you the theory so that you can figure out what went wrong. Bleed resistors don't normally overheat, so there must have been something special that happened to yours. What was it?

Are you getting peddling and pedalling mixed up? If not, what are they pedalling that's not the bike?