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the maximum for the lightweight 85SX is 16A. We still use the 85SX in the Woosh Faro but stopped selling the motor in kits. it's fairly straightforward to open the controller (4 screws) and make an extension lead beween the controller and the battery using Anderson or XT connectors.

You can replace the battery + controller (at the base of the battery) with a 36V 10AH bag battery and controller that goes inside a saddle bag like this: The 36V 10AH is good for about 30-35 miles from a full charge. If you want to proceed with this idea, please email support@wooshbikes.co.uk

We do supply components for servicing outside the warranty period.

current control on bikes. The kit controllers still have speed control, I can load current control firmware on request. Your controller is made by JYT. Both Lishui and JYT can supply current control firmware on request. I'll make a video with Lishui speed control later this week for comparison.

I found someone in your neck of the woods, NR5. I have PM'ed you.

yes, that's a pretty good plan. Your controller is YCSH (JYT) brand, not Lishui. Lishui controllers have product codes starting with LSW-something. The good thing about Lishui controllers is their firmware cope automatically with a lot of variations in motors: Hall or Hall-less, number of...

I look that up for you tomorrow

found it at: Bosch Al3640cv 36v Li-Ion Charger With Battery Schematics | PDF (scribd.com)

@StuartsProjects - can you post a picture of the whole schematic or the bottom right? it's too difficult to work out without the missing part.

I missed the part of the schematic in your post #78. Will try to make sense of it tomorrow

Which post is the video in?

Your picture does not show where the red and black wires are attached to.

it's the switch marked SW2. The middle blade is connected on the charger side to BUS (K2, middle ground) and shorts the negative of the high side to the positve of the low side.

you don't need as much as 1000W to pull a trailer with 100kgs load. The issue is to avoid running the motor outside its sweet zone. This Woosh Big Bear is fitted with a Bafang 36V 20A 250W BPM motor:

Bafang make those two motors differently, their 36V and 48V versions differ too. There are trade-offs, you should buy exactly what you need and avoid using the component outside its specifications. There are always trade off, there is no free lunch.

do you mean cheaper than the Bafang BBSes? Nothing is much cheaper. The Tongsheng bb motors have torque sensor and cost about 5% less than their Bafang competitors. However, the Bafang have bigger motor compared to the Tongsheng. Tongsheng has just brought out their TSDZ2B Turbo with the same...

the middle button with the plastic pin works like this: the pin keeps the SW2 contact open until a device is connected. When SW2 is open, the two 18V halves are not connected, the battery does not deliver anything. When a correct device is connected, the two leaves are connected with the middle...

that schematic diagram seems to show two packs of 18V in series. The charger has a high side and a low side (= two chargers), the SW2 connects the middle ground and activates the charger.

That's because your motor is not working in its sweetzone under 10mph, the yield drops, more battery turns into heat. There is a tool on the ebikes.ca website to simulate your motor. XF08 is a tiny bit beefier than XF07, for simulation, just use the XF07 in their library...

The RPM rating is confusing. There is no agreement between manufacturers for labelling. I much prefer Bafang winding code. We always make sure that the motors are at their best between 12mph and 15mph. That's because 12mph for climbing a moderate hill, 15mph for cruising. Maximum derestricted...