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Unplug the charger, use the battery for an hour or until it stops working then take it to the recycling station. As it is faulty, don't charge it again.

I can't agree more. However, this thread appeals to the tinkerers among us. Although I would not advocate for paralleling batteries, I am still curious to understand the risks involved. This is a reference BMS for up to 16 cells in series, it's kind of typical for modern BMSes: QUOTE: This...

I can always ask Tongsheng to make me a 250W version. They have EN15194 certicicate for their TSDZ2B-TURBO. They fixed the gearbox in revision B, I suppose they have fixed the issue of overheating in the TURBO version.

not much other that it weighs 4.8kgs and the torque exceeds 100NM. It looks strangely similar to the DM-01. I don't know if it has the same mold. In any case, I don't know the real story behind their engineer leaving to work for toseven.

it's a new product so there is little information about that, except that the rep at Aikema assured me that their firmware isn't buggy. I'll get some stock in by end of September/beginning of October. Would anyone volunteer to strip the TSDZ2B Turbo motor down and make a YT video?

BTW, Aikema/Tongsheng are selling their TSDZ2B TURBO.

that review is shallow on technical details. The toseven's DM-02 looks like a TSDZ2B. Note how the guy compares the DM-02 against the TSDZ2 and not the 'B' and how he caveated that he does not know the techical details of what he commented on etc.

when you connect two batteries, you are in effect charging one with the other through the charging port too. We discussed this subject some years back, didn't we? I find it is difficult to discuss without a reference schematics.

You found the fault and it is a shorted block. Take it to the recycling centre.

Repair is not worth the risk. You would have mismatched cells in your battery.

the white connector at the top of the BMS has 11 balance wires. They are connected to the cell blocks. One end is ground or Bat-, the other is the Bat +. The voltage at the wire next to the Bat- should be about 3.6V, the next wire 7.2V etc until the 11th wire 36V. Let us know what you find.

If you charge battery 1 while the battery 2 is still connected by the link at the output, both will surely be charged at the same time and the only thing that is missing is the balancing phase on battery 2? If you charge next time the other battery then the balancing would be done alternately, no?

sorry I was caught up in the shop serving a customer. Your suggestion is good. There has always been a link to the product web page, a link named 'view full details'. I have now replaced them with a more readable wording: LINK I will replace it with a royalty free icon tomorrow.

the website is geared to make life easier for people who work at Woosh, basically anticipate questions, lower expectations and under promise on everything - which is totally at the opposite of the usual goals of marketting. So I usually don't put on the website that you can do this or that if...

As far as I am aware, there are two convenient settings available on the Woosh kit for the Brompton that are not on other kits. - Powerset: that sets the number of assistance levels, percentage of power for each level - Maximum current. The default is 15A max but you can change it up/down in...

you can make your own with off the shelf reed switches but they cost only about £16 a pair of ready made sensors, it's not worth the effort making your own. I put a 2mm screw on the magnet because I don't trust the sticky pads that come with the sensors.

yes, to open the case, it's just a matter of removing the screws. Batteries are generally safe but they have limited life expectancy. As they age, the risk of fracturing the electrodes increases. Fractures can create a shortcircuit between the electrodes and the cell will overheat to the point...

A step by step process will soon determine the fault. What surprised me is he thought he needed to open the battery case to measure the battery's voltage. It does look like you said, we don't know if one block or more is bad, The battery is more than 5 years old and should be retired in any case.

There is no need to open the case. You measure the output voltage at the battery output port, where it makes contact with the controller. Post a picture if you are not sure.

Tektro M285 are the easiest to fit hydaulic brake sensors to. This is on one of my old bikes: