Search results

you should try both hub and crank motors if you have the opportunity. Crank motors are a little bit more expensive but give you better weight distribution and torque control.

Connect the probes to the battery output port like you normally do when not charging.

Charge the battery again, write down the output voltage every 15 minutes. When the LED on the charger goes green, leave the charger on for another hour. Let us know the result.

He should test first which motor suits him best, front or rear, then use the second kit on another bike.

If the intention is building a road legal bike, then the question is how much real or maximum power you are going to need to climb hills around where you live?

100mV is not much energy for a 10s1p 5AH pack , roughly 1% of the capacity of the pack, under 2WH or 7200 Joules. You are looking at a current less than 0.5A. The problem will arise when you parallel much larger packs and with more cells in parallel. Then the resistance of the packs will be...

Two motors working at the same time? That not legal to start with. You would also increase risks - a two wheel drive is also the recipe for losing traction and steering.

I am not surpised. The plug on the picture in your post #1 looks like Julet 3-pin male. Bafang BBS throttle comes with Higo 3-pin female.

It's interesting but that plug looks like from Julet, won't fit your bbs. It takes about the same amount of space compared to the throttle you have now.

Do you have pictures? The shape of the frame is important too.

turns per volt. More turns / volt = stronger magnetic field for the same voltage = more torque

the copper wires inside the 48V version is upgraded to take on 30% more power. You also have more spires per Volt, giving you better torque.

It's a bit like traffic congestion on the M25. You can drive reasonably fast until 80% of capacity.

it's down to the diffusion of Lithium ions through a porous electrode. You can push those ions more quickly with higher charging voltage up to 80% but It takes time to spread evenly so filling the remaining 20% will have to be slow. Pushing those ions too fast will result in fractures.

the trouble with those pancake motors is their output torque is lower than conventional geared hubs. You'll need to match them with a high reduction gearbox (= bigger loss) for e-bike use.

Read my post #2. The cheaper batteries on amazon, ebay, ali etc don't have cell brand and A grade.

I can fit an unsprung seat post for someone who is 5ft6

batteries are as good as the cells that they are made with. Just ask your suppliers which cells they use in your battery. Cells are graded into batches. You want grade A cells too. Stay away from pouch cells. They are much less safe compared to cylindrical cells. Cylindrical cells have steel...

You can advertise for free on the woosh website. Please email support@wooshbikes.co.uk if you want to proceed

I select the hub motors so that they don't exceed 21mph even when derestricted and get twitchy everytime someone is interested in running those motors at 48V instead of 36V to give themselves 30% extra speed. Cardiff police confiscated 17 bikes, they are all capable of 30+mph. Let that be a warning.