Search results

For finding the correct wire combo at the controller end of the wiring temporarily use household wire connector strips to insert the wires in to and then use the phase/hall chart to find whichtwo or three of the 36 wire combo's work.

The three phase wires (thicker ones ) are non std compared to China stuff today , the sense wires are coloured to almost std bar the Grey which may be the speed wire . If converting to a generic controller I think the option for now if it were me would be to leave those wires as they are...

What connections are at the controller end as it is often easier to test them there.

A simple DVM is all that is needed to test for Hall failure , if you have moulded connectors then the task is more difficult.

Motor wires will go to the controller/pcb , it will be accessible some where .

Most councils recyling centres should be able to take it for recyling. If wants to totally render the battery useless/dead chuck it in a bucket of saline water..

We need to see the hub motor connection/connector . If it isn't a std type fititng them one can still use it by sorting out the wires at the controller if one opts for a generic system change.

Electric Bicycle Pedal Sensor Ebike Double Hall 12 Magnet Right Side PAS System | eBay EBike PAS Pedal Assist 12 Magnets Sensor Bicycle Parts Bicycle Right Side | eBay KT-D12L Pedal Sensor for Left Side Fit for YOSE POWER Kit Replacement | eBay

Before one goes to much further try running the hub sensorless if you have L3/0 setting , otherwise test the hub to see if there is a Hall failure. One needs to test the Blue, Green & Yellow thin Hall wires against the thin Black Gnd wire with a meter, with the bike powered up one should...

Don't use tools on it , they are tight but one should only use hand strength to push them home.

Yep two or three mm shy of the line .

For testing P4/0 and C4/1 for throttle should be selected , then if one wants to be legal on the road select P4/1 and C4/3 for pedal first activation of throttle. C1 PAS value will be dependent on the PAS type fitted.

One has to have the throttle enabled in C4 for it to work. Also one has to have the correct PAS wire sequence wired up and the correct PAS setting C1 set , if the PAS operates with back pedal it isn't fitted correctly. Start with wire to wire colour sequence of controller to motor...

Any KT LCD will work with any KT controller , the exception is if the the KT controller is a customer custom model . As with my post above wire to wire matching isn't guaranteed to work with some hubs soone has to try the wire swapping combo's.

Most batteries will be able to deliver 15a continuous , KT's have setting C5 where one can reduce the current delivery by some 50% . One expects the motor to controller wiring isn't matched correctly , one can't be guaranteed that wire ot wire colour match will work. In all there are 36...

I had a look and from the views of the pics couldn't cypher them to even say if they were correct, tbh honest I can't even see the Gnd or speed wire at all.

With those white multi blocks one also has to make 100% sure that one of the pins hasn't backed out or has been pushed out because of a barb not holding it correctly in place.

Yes , carry out as the boxes say and methodically go thru them. Typically about three will work one them tries them out and opts for the best solution under power. It is possible that the current syncing isn't 100%, as mentioned it isn't 100% guaranteed that all colour to colour matchings...

As cb has said the flickering indicates moisture in the handle bar unit, causng shorts inside.

Memory serves me right that the PAS is TS.