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The 1:1 gear varies dependant on the nexus model. I thought the 1:1 on the nexus 5 was gear 1 as the nexus 5 was designed for ebikes, the other gears being higher over drive gears. My Alfine 8 has gear 5 as the 1:1. Otherwise as Matt has said check for any line kinks or freying.

Check the yellow marks on the nexus cassette joint are aligned when the 1:1 gear is selected.

I compare display reading with a GPS and then adjust the P1 if needed so they match very closely..

Standing charge to be scrapped for some new tariffs to give low user consumers more choice and slightly cheaper bills. First time foe some 300 pages or more for a post on the line of the actual thread heading.

Imv if you are saying some cell groups are sub 2v then the battery is a bin job, they masy recover but will let you down when they sag terribly or collapse on the first hill.

P1 192 for the swytch AKM95, a P1 widely out will cut out at 10/11 mph. But as d8veh has said make sure everything works then one can mess with settings.

The nylon should be fairly heat proof and not an issue. One would need to be heavy handed braking with a 20" folding bike.

That's the one, saves messing about with washers and keeps the rotor evenly supported .

Vin those battery bars give a false idea of battery SOC , they aren't linear in voltage reduction. With two bars your voltage will quite be low and then any voltage sag soon takes the voltage below LVC. The only true way of cyphering how much is left in the tank is voltage readout or a watt...

Sadly some of these companies want to make stuff that isn't user freindly to repair, just means for your average buyer who have no knowhow (or even know guys like us who exsist ) end up having to go back to them and paying up. Fortunately we do exsist and have managed to help out many a...

All of the hubs I have bought arrive with a 2- 3mm grey nylon rotor spacer . Rather then use individual washers Peter make a one piece disc spacer with aligned holes , a bit 2mm Ali sheet will do the job.

Good point there d8veh , I forgot about the battery age so yes it could be due to battery sag esp more so if the voltage is quite low.

The cadence sensor bikes you tried gave you a bad impression because they use crappy speed control systems, KT current control systems are far superior and the cadence mode is as refined as the torque sensing bikes. One reason why we recommend them so much , yes they are about £50 or £60...

The clue to Kevin's issue is' it occurs when going up hill' . The controller works harder and also means it gets hotter or one should say the mosfets are operating nearer their max temperature. Riding speed is important the slower one rides when ascending then the more the controller will heat...

The battery in your pic has the Panny PF 2900mah cells .

Typically one will check without charging occurring. One wants to see 10 seperate cell voltages and whether there are any large discrpency between the readings.

Black is b0- /0v and then the next wire in turn is odd cell #1 and the next even cell #2 and so on. The last Red is cell # 10. Probe Black and the first colured wire with red probe for cell grouop #1 reading . Move Red probe to next colour wire cell group #2 and Black probe to cell group...

Yes the dlops bike in question has handshaking so a simple generic battery won't work , for simplicity in the future and for cherap and efficient repairs it is best to simply replace the controller ,display, PAS (cost about £100) for a nice KT set up and then add any two wire generic battery...

Check the cell voltages first to see if there is an issue with any of them. It is easy to do via the multi colour BMS sense wire connector shown in your jpeg pic 2127 .

Yes, if it is 9mm diameter.