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Ah - I see what you mean - it is indicating 30 mph without the motor assisting - perhaps they should confiscate unpowered bikes on that basis as they would show the same !

In the wheel off the floor test, after the initial overrun, the motor should cut out until the speed drops to 25 km/h

I was just surprised that resting 38.4V was only 1/3 -1/4 useful battery power left

Surely he'll get more than that ? 42V to 38.4V = 3.6V voltage drop 38.4V- 30V 8.4V voltage drop - I thought he was less than halfway through his battery ?

So 36V 13A battery = 468Wh Legal pedal assisted e-bikes typically use between 5Wh per mile for very light assistance to 20Wh for more substantive assistance, so depending on rider weight, terrain, speed and assistance the range is likely to be between 90 miles for very light assistance to 23...

No, you'd have to fit a cadence sensor

Yep, that should work, get a new battery and rack, KT controller and display, you might be able to use the existing pedal sensor or get one with the kit

@saneagle if I got a 36v 201rpm akm-128cst and ran it at 48v, and set the controller to 18 amps max, would you think that is likely to be ok ?

I was thinking of using a 260 rpm akm-128cst for my gravel bike. I was thinking of running one marked as 201 rpm 36v at 48v but I just thought, could also run one marked as 328 rpm 48v at 36v

is there much difference between the mirider and the hitway : https://www.e-bikesdirect.co.uk/electric-bikes/mirider-16-compact-step-through-folding-electric-bike-onyx-grey/ https://uk.hitway.eu/products/bk2-folding-electric-bike

Not sure if you want e-bike advice or spamming us with fake watch adverts, but if you want advice we need some more info on your intended use of an e-bike

I think it is the 250W controller that is locked to 15.5 mph, so you'd just end up with a (nominal 350W) motor that wasn't as powerful as your nominal 250W motor because the 350W motor has a higher winding speed. What are you trying to achieve on your private land ? I think people have reported...

I reduced the current to 18A from default 22A on my 48V full sus bike with Bafang G020 rear hub motor. It seems plenty powerful enough on the numerous 20-25% max gradient hills round here with my 105kg weight with some pedalling effort.

With used e bikes you have to be careful of the battery. There has been several reports here of Wisper 575Wh batteries not being recoverable after being left empty for extended periods without charging

https://www.facebook.com/share/1EykopPgfn/ https://www.facebook.com/share/15SxSbsUNa/ https://www.facebook.com/share/1EWmwLbaki/

I personally wouldn't start with the stow-e-way, I would sell it and start off with a different donor bike (find one that has the attributes that you like from the stow-e-way.)

Few ideas 36v Woosh rear hub XF08c on low step carrera https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/revisiting-my-first-conversion.48596/post-744156 (Donor bike £80 off Facebook) Akm-75 conversion on Carrera Intercity disc 8 36v 10Ah removable battery (Yosepower battery)...

More powerful bikes have heavier motors. Longer range bikes have heavier batteries. Beyond a certain point (10-11 kg ) reducing the weight of the non e-bike specific components is chasing diminishing returns. The lightest conversion kit I've fitted had a 1.6kg AKM 75 motor and a 1.8 kg 36v...

here any good ? https://uk.fiido.com/search?type=product&options%5Bprefix%5D=last&options%5Bunavailable_products%5D=last&q=headlight

Battery range ? 36V 11.1 Amps