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I have had to true my back wheel a couple times now due to bottoming out the tyre, I should really maintain my pressures better! Anyway I tuned all the spokes by ear today so tension was even, obviously the wheel has had a few knocks so I knew I'd have to make some corrections after. I took the...

Hmm yes not a fan of front hubs tbh. For her use it might be ok, I'd spin out if it were me though

Which of the two has more raw power in your opinion? Both seem like good options

Wouldn't be too fussed about exact spares can always choose and change. Will have a look at woosh again then

She is going to use her crappy xiongying bike through winter then get shot of it as the battery sags and cuts out on high assist. Her spare still works so may get some pocket change for it when we're finished. Requirements: Stepthrough 48v 13ah or more Panniers/mudguards As cheap as possible...

Lol at these prices http://www.goringrevision.co.uk/electric-bikes-gb-6/26-tdl6119-snow-electric-bicycle-bike-36v-10ah-li-battery-adjustable-seat-handlebar-b078rks3ks-hn-356.html

Definitely the reservoir, you can see the crack, and the bubbles. This is allowing air into the system. After topping up the fluid several times and "burping" the bubbles out I have it semi working, new brake should be here tomorrow

I have Clark M2 brakes, the reservoir cap on the rear lever has cracked and now it leaks and the brake has stopped working. Anything I can do to restore the seal until new brakes arrive? Front brake only would be fine if it wasn't so slippy, even studs have their limita

Thanks, will be a while till I do this, when I have saved funds and done my homework

I was thinking of doing that, would prefer not to drill the frame if possible though in case I bugger it up

I have just learned these are a thing, and considering it as an option as sadly the plastic controller box I bought won't fit my frame and I am not the biggest fan of running it in a bag like I'm doing now. Only thing is I'd have to rethink my battery mounting as I had to drill the part where...

Well there's a reason it costs £20 less than a KT setup I guess. Anyway I replaced the hall plug connectors with gold plated ones and touch wood no more error code. Seems smoother, but still not silky. I guess it's just cheap, I had to plug the self learn in when I got it because it span backwards

The controller is purposely dual voltage

I thought square wave could be sensored too? It certainly has a hall plug, I assumed it was square because of choppy power delivery when starting up, or does this mean it's just crap?

Hmm, started the bike, E007, revved the throttle with wheel off ground and it went away. These controllers have always seemed rough in their power delivery but I think that's because it's probably square wave, the roughness seems more pronounced at 48v though, perhaps these just aren't a good...

What he said, I want to upgrade to KT could be a good excuse if it's the controller

I know of this trick, again appears to be normal resistance

All the above appeared to be normal apart from error 7 code and sticky motor

I'll get round to it, trouble is even with that as the fault is intermittent it may not show? Have ordered new gold plated connectors for the halls to rule that out as they are a bit corroded, in the meantime I cleaned them up the best I could. Phase wires look good

Al Carrera Vulcan e spec, modified with brainpower controller and 48v battery. Could still be a rogue connection I guess but don't have metre to test