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ROFL ! :) It's funny the different views on stuff though - Mr Maplin wrinkled his nose in horror and disbelief at the idea of direct solder-tapping and wasn't trying to sell me anything. I guess it's the difference between the old days when you made do with what you had and these days where...

Well, if you do then make sure you stay away from the clear PVC ones and hook the cape on the bars properly, or a gust of wind might show you and the rest of the neighbourhood why Scotsmens' kilts are made of heavy tartan ;) I tried a lovely Duxback cape and can see how completely sensible...

I see. Will look and see if there's any household block lying about somewhere. For a more permanent solution, manager at Maplins who does guitar amp setups suggested I use one of these (they don't sell 'em) for the positive distribution to the various circuits (effectively up to 4 tapping wires...

Ah - terminology confusion ! I still need to take a tapping wire off though, right ? My battery has a Deans connectors fitted to the terminals right now. ... and then leave the ends parked in connector block as a temporary measure when I disconnect the lights ?

Agree with RobF. If you want a high-powered kit for a 700C then something like this (201rpm) : Bafang BPM 36V500W Rear Driving Bike Conversion Kit - BMSBATTERY with this 36V 13Ah Li-Ion Shrink Tube EBike Battery Pack - BMSBATTERY Budget about US$180 shipping and about £35 duty. The pound...

Coz I don't know what those are, where to find them or how to do it :p Didn't know you could test without wiring in. :rolleyes: So how does that work, Dave ? Have a look at last post on this page : http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/13628-new-light-runs-direct-battery-5.html...

You'll also get fitter quickly especially if you haven't cycled for a while. Just my opinion - but if you're thinking along those lines, you may as well simply buy a £250 hybrid bike in the sales and fit a powerful rear hub kit to it. The weight of 2 motors and the battery power to drive them...

Yup, got one of those. Not been convinced to fit it yet. I might initially tap a standalone test circuit and wire it up to try before inserting a DC-DC for a 3-CREE XM-L T6 to try that as a comparison. Wouldn't need a switch initially for either I guess - would just unsolder the lamps after the...

I know that feeling all too well - both areas where I spend considerable time have prolonged steep hills to get anywhere outside the immediate village / town and whilst it's OK when you're out cycling to get a serious workout it's no fun as a way of life. Can't afford to burn 2000 calories in a...

Any update as to whether the custom ROM causes any other issues, Danny or is it all good now ?

Sent you a pm, johnamon.

3W sounds very low for a single XM-L - I may be wrong but thought they can emit up to 10W per emitter depending on the current they are run at ... Cree Component XLamp XM-L LEDs Do you think the lights have on-board current limiters which are limiting the Wattage of light output ? 3W and...

tillson, may come back full-circle to going with this ... are the front ones the lights you use wired up this way ? Are they 2-LED lights in a single housing or just 1 emitter per light ? Also do you know how much current the lights draw each ? Cheers.

I just wear lycra shorts with some regular longish shorts over the top, knee warmers / roubaix 3/4s if it's cold. If it rains I get wet (or put on Altura Apex waterproof trousers which have velcro at the bottom to stop them catching on a chain - but most of the time I just get wet as I can't be...

You may need both. If they are LEDs you I believe you need a current limiting board ideally, to stabilize supply current. Plus you have to feed a voltage that the new driver board accepts so you may need a buck/DC-DC unless the driver board you choose accepts variable voltage input within the...

Cleared a space now - sorry. Will print out some old ones and make more !!

The tightening bolt forces the olive to contact the head of the insert - it cannot sit loose in the switch assembly somewhere further down. With no olive compressing the insert head against the switch, fluid would simply escape. There are no rubber seals anywhere - the whole thing works on...

The insert was seated fine in the hydraulic tube. The olive (black part) slides on the tube before the insert is placed in the end of the tube. When you tighten up the nut (see exploded photo earlier) it compresses the olive against the head of the insert, forming the seal. Like so : However...

Off Bikeforums : ""Keep in mind that the newer production models have an annoying "feature": the light will run on high for only 70mins and then automatically switch to low and continue to run for another 165 mins - it refuses to switch back to high until you charge the batteries or just take...

Just call me ham-fisted :p ... never occurred to me that the insert could wind up retracted through the olive. Heaven knows how I managed that seeing how impossible it is to get out again.. Think I might have tugged on it when I spotted seepage at that point the first time when the screw...