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Here's the multimeter I have - with pins plugged into 10ADC and COM : Gone to look for the instruction leaflet !

Indeed. Nice looking bikes though, and the 18Ah battery (if that's accurate) is a BIG plus for a proper sensible range versus most of the other puny ones manufacturers fob everyone off with and claim they'll last for 50+ miles lol. Shame about the mechanical disc brakes. Definitely should be...

How does one test current ? I have a multimeter if that helps. Wd also welcome a quick eye over this schematic of what I'm planning to do for rigging this light up together with the one in "New light runs direct from battery" thread from the same switch output wire (Off on LOW / On on HIGH)...

Bike's all OK and everything that took a knock repaired so all :cool: on that front. On a happy note I got back on a bike today - the Kalkhoff this time as I'm doing further mods to the Trek. Was nice to be back in the saddle. :). Have to say though I'm now acutely aware of the road...

That's a shame. When you take into account the total "rental payments" together with the final purchase payment (25% of original cost or something like that I think) then how much money in total would you actually pay for a £1000 bike in cash terms ? If you're a higher rate taxpayer then the...

... Shimano, SD66L SPD Sandals from only £60.03. Free UK Delivery | Wheelies :)

:confused: ... it's a variable input light so if output is fixed then I was guessing that if output is fixed regardless of input voltage then for example : 27W / 12V = 2.25A current but 27W / 24V = 1.125A current (lower) Is that wrong ? Can't be sure of the 27W (probably more like 20W @...

Finally rigged this up across one of those LM2956HV DC-DC converters. Have set it to 12V for testing and yes, it's very very good. All you need for dark lane riding - the whole road ahead is lit with very good near and long distance illumination. I'd have to desolder it off the DC-DC converter...

Aha. It's not so expensive tho' - 1 mini-packet works out £1.70 from a multipack and was enough to insulate that connector, make blanking plug and insulate some wire that had lost its insulation right by the connector off a T6 battery pack rendering it unsafe .. (re-instated the waterproofing)...

Finally solder on the supply wires from my switch (could just as easily be +ve & 0V if no switch) to the relevant solder bridges and insulate right round the joins with Sugru. Leave to set for a full 24 hours. Photo is of the 2-outlet double-Deans connector coming from the switch coupled to 1 x...

Right, well I decided to use the idea to split my supply 2-ways from the other side of the FET isolator switch. It means I can plug in my Controller into one and all my other circuits into the other. Handy way of splitting the supply and no need to tap my main wire. This is how I made it ...

Must have been dozing ... does the Kudos Arriba come with a CST motor then ?

OK that makes sense, thanks. I think with the lights I'm stuck with the cable that comes supplied so will just need to review the fuse rating for the box once I've finally decided what lights are getting rigged up to the switch. May or may not be able to fuse each light after the handlebar...

What means 7/02 and 16/02, Mike ? The cable that comes with the light has the usual dual core cable with puny thin wires in it ... a very hard crimp on a red connector were needed to get it to hold for testing. When it's rigged up for the bike there will be a proper wire from the fuse box to...

I've never taken one apart but Sheldon Brown linked a service manual for them which might help answer your question if no-one else can advise specifically : Shimano Nexus 8-speed Hub - Service Manual

OK - think I'm ready to switch on if everything's safe .... :confused: ... here's the rig-up : Box is my FET switch connected to a double-Deans adaptor. I've plugged the other side with a blanking plug. The 2 thick blacks are off a single Deans pin and go to 2 x 4-way blocks on the BUSbar...

Just a quicky ... there are red & white wires coming out of the light - am I right in thinking the red is +ve and the white 0V ?

All is revealed :) .. just playing with it now actually - will probs post up a photo of the wiring array I've put together to double check it's OK before connecting up :eek: .. wee bit more to go and it's not the final assembly just a 1st test. There are still 2 solder pads under the front LED...

Never looked back from using Shimano SPD clipless pedals. I found the ones which are normal on one side and clip-in on the other great for a month or so but then kept having problems hitting the clip-in side in traffic and found looking down to get the right side a distraction from riding...

Bummer. I have some single-mode 950mA driver circuits that I was going to use to build CREE T6 lights with no clicky switch if you want one. Reckon you might need to take down the input voltage as they clearly have current limiters on them to regulate the voltage. I also have a couple of spare...