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I took one apart today looking to see whether I could modify it or pinch the driver. Don't think it's a CREE LED, bilabonic - certainly had no markings indicating as such. It was on a star board. Could be a knock-off of a CREE P4 or similar : FWIW, it would be very easy to replace the LED...

Very good m'lady .... :p but I think this one might be more comfortable with the drive required :

Nice to see the bike taken out where it belongs and getting muddy :). I did wonder at the start whether it was the motocross category though - those are some serious looking trousers, Martin :eek:

When you have all that beef to conserve, you can't afford to be wasting calories ! It's the same if you're trying to gain lean mass (and don't have a load of fat to shed) - regular cycling is a huge no-no but e-biking is a good compromise. Should be marketing them down the gyms to the local...

That looks just like one of mine ... a tin of beans and I should be FLYING ................ Right in the middle of the Hot Cross Buns ....:p It was gorgeous earlier ... if I'd been more organized and not run out of food, could have gone for a nice little ride - rather than saddling up with 2...

The 3-CREE lights are very bright (see 'brightest possible front light' thread) ... but I fit with these so they do not make such a concentrated beam - it is more like a car headlight pattern : Wide Angle Lens for Magicshine, Lupine and Gemini Bike Lights | eBay Using 2 single CREE T6 lights...

Hi cwah. Yes, that's the one. There are 9 small LEDs which can flash or stay constant along with a 3W LED in the centre. You will be seen from VERY far ! The light has a rotating bezel which you turn when you first open the power supply through 3 modes. There are 2 flash patterns to go...

Got one of these in an e-bay auction minus battery pack as I'm wiring it in. Impressed actually. Really small and very bright : I can't mount on my seatpost as the light would be covered up so I adapted one of these to screw on to the mounting plate on the back of my rack : Cut it down...

This is the light run at between 22 & 24V : You're not going to miss much with that on. It's not so intense in the near distance as a 3-CREE with wide-angle, but is much clearer in the intermediate distance. It's very hard to pick up on a camera. It's also a lot bigger, but nowhere near as...

It's been mentioned above, but this light really does have a very intense hotspot - and is a narrow throw light but the very near distance illumination is pretty good too. Here's a pic of the light over about 15m :

Here's a pic of the near-distance (15-20m) throw of the above light on 'High'.... fitted with a diffuser 'wide angle' lens to spread the hotspot. It really is extremely bright. For £36 or thereabouts it's pretty amazing value for something so compact. Only trouble is the light is really...

In case anyone is interested in wiring one of these in, I hooked one up to my CREE circuit which runs off a 36V bike battery and uses one of these 9V 3A-rated HRD step-down converters : HRD Series Converter DC 12v 24v 36v step down to 9v 3A | eBay Closest listing now active I could find is...

Doubt you'd need any more power than that for one even very steep hill ;) .. you can easily fit a regular 9sp cassette (or possibly even 10sp if you wanted it) and no freewheel required. It's a very nice motor - not so fast you can't keep up with it with the right gearing setup but loads of...

You can't use pitlocks with that axle - they only work to replace standard QR skewers combined with vertical dropouts. I use a front pitlock skewer on both my bikes as they have standard skewers. They can't be used on the rear wheel as there's a hub axle on one and a hub gear axle on the other...

Some more bits completed today - finally got the accessory circuit rigged up with its own isolator switch in the live feed (this allows it to be switched off externally). Couldn't find any decent rated rocker switches that weren't huge and ugly so went for another one like my main FET switch but...

I think you may be on to something there ! :)

Connected up all these HRD converters and they all seem pretty close to the rated output voltage, which bodes well :). Was expecting at least one 'dud' as most of them were pretty inexpensive. Readings obtained as follows : E-bay Supplier - MarcMart - 5v - Rated 5V / Read output - 5.11V...

Pretty much exactly what I was doing, Mike. Perhaps the terminal plates are aluminium or stainless steel - in which case they'd need silver solder (be cheaper just to buy another one !). I doubt it but you never know ... it doesn't say on the product spec. Have to be careful with those 4-way...

Well, I haven't had any trouble soldering anything else that doesn't involve lucar connectors or contacts. I had exactly the same problem trying to solder Halfords battery connector terminals which ended up being crimped as even the wires would not allow solder to adhere for tinning. Never had...

Ah - thanks. Didn't spot the edit above with the capacitor info. Just spotted on the trace that the higher rated capacitor is on the V IN trace and the smaller one is on the V OUT trace - so that's whey there are 2 :).