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I hit one a couple of weeks ago. As you say, it was covered by a shallow looking puddle. I spotted it at the last moment and was able to lift the front wheel. Destroyed the rear wheel. Had to rebuild with a new rim.

There's no mention of that in the spec, but they are made of pretty thick rubber and have a deep tread, so I'm hoping they will be pretty good. On my other bike I run Schwalbe Fat Frank's. They are my favourite road tyre, but not a lot of use off road. I have done about 700 miles on those, no...

Sorry to go back on topic, but I have just fitted a pair of DMR Moto 2.4's to my Mountain bike (with Bafang CST, 20ah batt). I have only used them for a mile or so, but I love 'em. They seem like the perfect compromise for my type of riding - mostly the back roads of the African bush - AKA East...

Thanks for the update, nice to see a positive conclusion to thread!

I have run dc-dc converters from a common 0v before, and continue to do so. In fact, just out of principle, I normally tie all the 0v bits together. I agree that powering 12v stuff from a single battery is not ideal, although I'm not sure how much of a problem it is in practice, especially with...

If you ever want Lidl/aldi discount stuff, and they have it in Exeter just give me shout. I'm working all over Kernow at the mo, and can drop it off for you.

Its easy to prove if its working: connect the red and blacks from controller to throttle. Stick a meter between white from throttle and black, have someone twist it. Volts will go from around 1-4 (ish)

Rather than change the brake levers/shifters, why not use some hidden wire brake sensors. Would save you a load of agro. The brake levers that come with those kits are normally plastic rubbish.

So green is likely to be battery voltage for display. White is probably floating about, as it signal input, red 5v, black 0v. To confirm check red to black and white to black....

Perhaps the throttle connector has a signal for battery level. How many wires on the throttle? Have you got a meter to check out what voltage on each pin?

Went in looking for the toolkit, came out with a digital vernier calliper. Suprisingly good for about £8, certainly good enough for home use.

Thhrottle connection usually has three wires. Normally coloured red/black/something else. Red is 5v, black is 0v, the othe is the signal. Perhaps you can post some pictures, then we will be able to help you with more precise answers.

Hi Lee, I PM'd you last week with some details. Did you get it?

Cool, just checking. Yes, you can get a LH throttle. I have one that I got from BMSB. On my hub geared bike though, I moved the gear shift to the left, and used a RH throttle. This does mean that the shifter is a bit upside down, however to me it seems less wrong than throttle on left. Just...

Can you just confirm something please: Hub or derailleur gears?

Controller: Yes, you definitely need one for a brushless DC motor. Throttle interfere: Not if you get the right one. Stick a photo on of your setup and someone can advise. Off shelf: possibly, although 500w is not legal, and 48v is less common. 36v is most common. Where to buy: I use BMS...

What's the limitation D8veh? I'm not familiar with that bike.

You have a lot of things in your favour here - being average height/weight is a good thing, and that's a healthy budget. If you are going to build something, you can put something really nice together for c. £700 + donor bike - see www.bmsbattery.com. If you are looking at buying one ready...

Sounds to me like you have the skills required to modify your existing bike. The electrical/electronic skills required are minimal, its mostly plug n play these days, and we can always help offer help if you get stuck. The hard part is deciding what you are going fit: front/rear/centre drive...

From 3.8 to 4v is around 20%. Assuming you have a 10ah cell, then you need to get 2ah into it, which will take 2 hours at 1 amp, or 1 hour at 2 amps (give or take) Thats why I suggested bringing the two high cells down, rather than the 8 remaining cells up.