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The fuse is ok , always the first and easy check to rule out any power issue fault. Andy will have to confirm but that + terminal is recessed to far and looks like the cause of power loss, if one looks closely one can see burn marks from arcing and discoloration on the plastic.

Probably a shagged out battery, ideally you need a voltage meter wired up so you can see the real time voltage reading. If the battery is shagged then the voltage collapses, a shagged out battery can still fully charge . When fully charged what is the battery voltage reading ?

Another strange poster or spammer, almost as strange as the other thread about the poster taping cotton wool buds to his step thru so it doesn't break.

Wind up merchant or a spammer.

I would then check for a blown fuse or see if one sees voltage on the discharge side first.

It alludes to that which was posted in #7, one needs to know for sure which control system is fitted anything with CANbus interface is a no no to buy as a used bike unless one wants to replace all the electonics with generic stuff.

Is the battery fused Tony and does it have an extenal one hidden by a grommet ?

Some Batribikes I thought used Canbus, just make sure this one doesn't.

Some one is winding you lot up , I can't believe you have fallen for it.

You can fit any kit to a bike with rim brakes , just because they are for disc brakes doesn't mean you need to fit a disc brake.

The electronics may also be basic , one may get the sketchy speed control type system rather then a nicer current control type system. Often if it is just a simple led with three levels of power then the former, these systems don't give you any control on the power used only the bike speed.

A wire short caused by moisture can lead to an open throttle scanerio, one can use the brakes to try and stop the motor but you will likely blow the controller . I stopped fitting the throttle as I found little use for them but on two occasions e- brakes saved the day when I one fitted. . 1...

The five pin/green is usally the display to controller cable .

If you have no luck then buy another KT display to use as it will not be P/W locked.

As an aside though the label say's lcd8 it looks like it is miss labelled, the shape/design is LCD5.

Usually one has to hold the up/down pads simultaniously for 5 -10 secs to enter the settings. Is it a kit or an OEM bike with KT electronics ? I suspect the latter as it is the user who decides if a kit is to be P/W protected. If the latter first contact the vendor. All you can do is try and...

This is turning into a saga , time to try the 36 wire combos to see if you can find one that works.

The connector is a five pin julet, it needs a whole new cable fitted rather then just the connector as the connectors are moulded around the wire connections.

BMS is a safetyboard to prevent over charge and discharge of the battery .

C4/0 is zero on star up or non operational. C4 try value 2. C4/1 = 6km/h. I don't recall how many poles your magent disc has so try C1/01 or 02.