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very interesting solution. I assume you remove the chain bouncing up and down in software.

these BBs last a very long time, only need cleaning and regrease. If the caged balls show corrosion (pitted surface), you can replace just the ball cages. If you are stuck, email woosh, I think they have what you need.

e-bikes with battery behind the seat post usually need long bottom bracket spindle, such as the ones with cup and cone. http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-deore-dx-bb-mt60-68mm-shell-english-thread-square-taper-bottom-bracket-1225mm-prod31710/

I could see this electric car fitted with a portable generator. They add about 7kg but can turn a litre of petrol into 2.7 KWH - enough to ride 200 miles without pedaling.

my knowledge is superficial I am afraid. You have to ask Andy@woosh.

you don't need the extra bracket, but you need to make sure that your fixing plate (the one with the 2M6 screws) is having the ridges keyed into the bottom bracket. You may need to buy a bottom bracket lockring tool (£2) to tighten the two M33. bottom bracket lockring tool...

you'd get a lot more out of a gel cover than a cheap sprung seat post.

correct. Battery consumption is lowest when the motor noise is quietest.

it should not matter much where you set the speed limit as far as you want to know about battery consumption. I would just jot down all the travel distances until next recharge then see how long it take to recharge. Roughly, it should be 6 miles for each hour your charger stays on red.

jnny6168, can you look into the time it takes to recharge the battery? knowing the distance travelled and time to recharge, it'll easy work out consumption and the range. Your battery should cope with 2C, 23A. The life of the battery depends on speed, because the maximum current is higher when...

you can set the speed limit a bit higher to avoid the motor cutting out, that won't affect the battery consumption. When you come home, note down the time it takes to recharge your battery. You could do the same with your wife's bike. The longer it takes for the charger to go green, the more...

@jnny6168 - try to stay to below 15mph, you should get the range you want. It does not matter to set higher speed limit. battery usage depends largely on speed, as the air resistance is proportional to speed to the cube (V*V*V). at 12-13mph, power consumption is about 6wh/mile, helped by humans...

you are looking for reliability. Unless you are a dab hand at bike mechanics then the simpler the better. Something like the Gtech would be good albeit a bit under powered and single speed. http://www.gtech.co.uk/ebike.html

up the speed limit a little and keep an eye on your catseye to see how the bike goes and how you feel. As long as you are not intentionally breaking law, I don't see anything wrong.

power going through the battery depends very much on speed. 17mph is not huge for the battery and still within 10% of legal speed limit.

you are allowed to increase the speed up to 17mph (28km/h). If you use the throttle after it's dropped below the set speed limit, does the motor kick back in again?

fit one of those NCX seat posts and you won't feel the road bumps:

yes, it must be it. I was thinking that it could be back pedaling to brake.

how about splittable bikes? Very useful concept for the elderly though. You instantly half the weight of the bike. I wonder if it has rear brakes.

40W soldering iron will produce too much heat for delicate soldering. I assume you are trying to shorten the trunk cable. Cut about 10 pieces of small sleeving (10mm long x 2mm wide sleeving) for the small conductors and about 100mm of the larger sleeving to cover the whole cable when done. Put...