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The LCD1 has no C parameter settings so it can't know what they are , I wanted to change C1, C3, C4, C5 & C14 values. Rather then remove a screen, I simply parked the two bikes next to each other, unplugged both screens and then plugged the lcd3 into the 1t4 cable on the lcd1 bike. One will...

Can't help, never tried using one. Afaik all one is doing is programming the controller. My older lcd1 had only P parameters to set so I simply parked my the lcd3 bike next to it to make the settings in the controller for the lcd1.

Only if one can trace where the issue is. Water ingress is one possibility or a broken /intimittemt wire. I had a Julet connector once that water was ingressing , it caused a green copper track between a pair of pins thus causing the short . Most likely may be the display internally either...

Fleet delievery vehicles will do 100+ a day but then again we are talking a different game come battery size and power.

Yes I saw that Capgemini makes it , it is also marketed under the Opel badge as a Rocks- e. Simply any company can sell the design under there own name as Capgemini have designed it as an open market concept to which both citroen and opel have decided to add it to their ranges with changes in...

Yes woul ddepend on the sytem used , one would be fooked if battery to controller CAN was used. By then micro EV may be sussed out .

Likely a wire short or electrical contact shorting in the display activating the motor via the controller.

Can one not position it and align it to the rear of the crank arm on the rear chain stay and then secure with a cable tie/s. It' s possible one may be able to use sticky pads or and a cable tie, if thePAS activates back peddling simply reverse the magnet disc face.

In about 6 - 8 years time , I wouldn't mind one of those citroen ami's with a defunct or in need of a battery and be able to buy one cheaply. One could then simply add a 48v 14KW LFP a lot cheaper then one expects a replacement official 5.5kw would cost.

Spot on Robin, cycling should be a relatively cheap easy transportation mode even including pedelecs . Generic stuff is but the proprietary ones aren't they are a false economy and only worth the risk if one is able to write off the cost, esp after two years shoul danything major go wrong.

The low and high both flashing is related to a brake sensor issue, disconnect both brakes to see if the bike works again. If so reconnect each brake seperatley to find which one is causing the fault. Light Combination Definition indicator light flash(LOW level) abnormal current...

error 24 is afaik motor hall error, though possible the controller is at fault if the 5v voltage rail is faulty. One shouldn't be seeing 15v on the 5v rail.

Throttle use #1 , then follows no insurance, testing, licensing & helmet wearing just for basics.

No, one will usually only fully disharge if opting for a long ride or to see how many miles the battery will actually manage.

Skynet 'hmmm' , beware of the Terminators coming.

The bars on the display aren't very accurate , all they indicate are very rough % levels determined by voltage seen. So typically 4 bars 100 - 25%, it will be still the same for a larger ah battery. The best type of fuel gauage is a watt meter or a voltage display read out.

Problem with graphene for ebike battery is it adds more weight.

The Mrs family own a locksmith shop/business and a furniture retail shop. They told me a tale about a well known furniture manufacturer and they had 'Which' review the products, Which told the manufacturer they would give review feed back and recommendation for a remuneration. Said manufacturer...

One would suspect a faulty controller , any error code.

You can get 2.5v if you spin the wheel too fast when testing, though if 2.5v at very slow rotation then yes hall/s are faulty.