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the website is geared to make life easier for people who work at Woosh, basically anticipate questions, lower expectations and under promise on everything - which is totally at the opposite of the usual goals of marketting. So I usually don't put on the website that you can do this or that if...

As far as I am aware, there are two convenient settings available on the Woosh kit for the Brompton that are not on other kits. - Powerset: that sets the number of assistance levels, percentage of power for each level - Maximum current. The default is 15A max but you can change it up/down in...

you can make your own with off the shelf reed switches but they cost only about £16 a pair of ready made sensors, it's not worth the effort making your own. I put a 2mm screw on the magnet because I don't trust the sticky pads that come with the sensors.

yes, to open the case, it's just a matter of removing the screws. Batteries are generally safe but they have limited life expectancy. As they age, the risk of fracturing the electrodes increases. Fractures can create a shortcircuit between the electrodes and the cell will overheat to the point...

A step by step process will soon determine the fault. What surprised me is he thought he needed to open the battery case to measure the battery's voltage. It does look like you said, we don't know if one block or more is bad, The battery is more than 5 years old and should be retired in any case.

There is no need to open the case. You measure the output voltage at the battery output port, where it makes contact with the controller. Post a picture if you are not sure.

Tektro M285 are the easiest to fit hydaulic brake sensors to. This is on one of my old bikes:

you should try both hub and crank motors if you have the opportunity. Crank motors are a little bit more expensive but give you better weight distribution and torque control.

Connect the probes to the battery output port like you normally do when not charging.

Charge the battery again, write down the output voltage every 15 minutes. When the LED on the charger goes green, leave the charger on for another hour. Let us know the result.

He should test first which motor suits him best, front or rear, then use the second kit on another bike.

If the intention is building a road legal bike, then the question is how much real or maximum power you are going to need to climb hills around where you live?

100mV is not much energy for a 10s1p 5AH pack , roughly 1% of the capacity of the pack, under 2WH or 7200 Joules. You are looking at a current less than 0.5A. The problem will arise when you parallel much larger packs and with more cells in parallel. Then the resistance of the packs will be...

Two motors working at the same time? That not legal to start with. You would also increase risks - a two wheel drive is also the recipe for losing traction and steering.

I am not surpised. The plug on the picture in your post #1 looks like Julet 3-pin male. Bafang BBS throttle comes with Higo 3-pin female.

It's interesting but that plug looks like from Julet, won't fit your bbs. It takes about the same amount of space compared to the throttle you have now.

Do you have pictures? The shape of the frame is important too.

turns per volt. More turns / volt = stronger magnetic field for the same voltage = more torque

the copper wires inside the 48V version is upgraded to take on 30% more power. You also have more spires per Volt, giving you better torque.

It's a bit like traffic congestion on the M25. You can drive reasonably fast until 80% of capacity.