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it's down to the diffusion of Lithium ions through a porous electrode. You can push those ions more quickly with higher charging voltage up to 80% but It takes time to spread evenly so filling the remaining 20% will have to be slow. Pushing those ions too fast will result in fractures.

the trouble with those pancake motors is their output torque is lower than conventional geared hubs. You'll need to match them with a high reduction gearbox (= bigger loss) for e-bike use.

Read my post #2. The cheaper batteries on amazon, ebay, ali etc don't have cell brand and A grade.

I can fit an unsprung seat post for someone who is 5ft6

batteries are as good as the cells that they are made with. Just ask your suppliers which cells they use in your battery. Cells are graded into batches. You want grade A cells too. Stay away from pouch cells. They are much less safe compared to cylindrical cells. Cylindrical cells have steel...

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I select the hub motors so that they don't exceed 21mph even when derestricted and get twitchy everytime someone is interested in running those motors at 48V instead of 36V to give themselves 30% extra speed. Cardiff police confiscated 17 bikes, they are all capable of 30+mph. Let that be a warning.

On bikes, I have to comply with the 1/1/2016 law, twist and go throttle is not allowed. You have to pedal or long press the - button to start and then pedal for a few seconds to activate the throttle. On kits, that law does not apply, you have twist and go throttle. That means the throttle is...

they use unmarked reject cells and labelled them as their own, consequence of that: the cells are unmatched, the pack falls out of balance and next time, when they charge to full, the pack starts a fire.

I think the safest move may be a wide adoption of intelligent 41V charger with complete history stored in the cloud so an AI can help with safety but we need to quantify the cost/benefit. Bosch may have already done that.

the fault may be in the cable between your controller and the LCD.

ruptures are accumulative.

motors have constants, Kv, Kt, Km are the most used for selecting the best motor for a job. Nobody lists them in a table for you to use but wiki motor constants, the article explains better than me.

The fundamental of PAS programming is still the same, the controller keeps you pedalling regardless of 'speed control' or current control. Basically, if you put zero effort into moving the pedals, the current will be reduced to near zero and the bike will slow down to a crawl. The key...

BTW, I decided to stick with Tongsheng TSDZ2B, 48V 250W. I feel that the B revision is good enough on a tried and tested kit while the DM-02 from toseven still has a way to go.

The charging is finished when the current is < 100mA at 42V. you would need to add an ESP32 or similar to control the charger via bluetooth or add a TFT touchscreen to the charger.

I did say 'seems to have lost', it's a typical question when someone noticed that the bars on the LCD battery meter went down more quickly than before. I reply that the first thing to do is to leave the battery on charge for several hours to make sure that the battery is fully charged and...

Small imbalances are inconsequential. You only need to leave it on longer (6/12/24 hours) if the battery seems to have lost some capacity, something like 20%

it's not a limitation by Lishui. They supply the code to suit OEMs. Their default code is practical for most users. It's not an on/off switch based on speed, it's a step change in effort based on the selected assist level. The main difference in the Lishui's 'speed control' - for lack of a...

in the thread throttle for the Carrera, my code implements just that, the throttle takes priority as long as you pedal and cuts the power as soon as you stop pedalling. Lishui and others keep the throttle going until you blip the brakes.