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perhaps. Still, I'd recommend a trip to the seaside. They are open on Saturdays.

possibly not, but you have to tighten the silver cup anyway. May be worth a trip to Southend. Typically, after the first 250-300 miles, everything needs tightening, greasing and also quite a few spokes need tightened up, the spokes and rims have settled by now. While you are there, Andy or Tony...

the silver cup replaces the traditional left bottom bracket cup. Remove the left crank, use a small philips screwdriver to remove the black pedelec sensor, then use the tool (the tool is C shape with two pins that fit into the silver cup) to tighten the cup well, you need to tighten it very well.

you need to contact support@wooshbikes.co.uk to get the tool to tighten the silver cup. It may be quicker to go see them, they'll give your bike a service.

if the LED blinks when the pedals are not moving, then there may be a poor connection somewhere between the sensor and the controller.

there is a little knack to it. The gap between the two pads is usually about 3mm wide, the rotor is about 1mm thick, you only have 1mm each side. If the rotor is warped more than 1mm, it will rub against one of the two pads. Move the wheel slowly so you can see where the rotor comes closest to...

use a torch to check if the rotor is centralised inside the caliper.

the LED on the motor shaft is the pedelec sensor. Check that the sensor cable is not pulled. The LED blinks when you pedal. The motor should start after about 5 blinks. If it does not blink in rythm with your pedalling, then the magnetic disc inside may be pinched by the silver cup.

the rotor disc is made out of soft steel and will flex easily by pushing gently with your thumb. You can correct any small mis-alignment with thumb pressure. The Avid BB7's pads are much more substantial and much longer lasting, will pay for itself in a few months. The rear Tektro V-brakes are...

simplest solution is to replace the front caliper for an Avid BB7 which has about 3 times the stopping power of the Zoom, simply because the pads are 3 times bigger and last 3 times longer. It's a 5 minute job...

Zephyr-B arrive next week, I'll try it out and let you know.

Pound Lane: BH15 3PS 6% gradient at its steepest bit Gorse Hill Road: BH15 3QH 6.3% gradient at its steepest bit Both averages about 4% overall. How far are they off?

woosh warranty is transferrable - and it's got a few nice things that you may want to leave on it - so you should get quite good money for it, I reckon around £600-£640.

The Woosh Zephyr-B is the best compromise - it has the Big Bear motor and wheels and hydraulic brakes and bigger chain ring and Neco BB and crankset. Also it folds. Remember: if it folds, it's gold! Also, post your Zephyr CDN on the Woosh secondhand page after you get your new bike.

give us the name of the hill you want to know, we can then compare various methods - we'll see which one is best.

one simple way is to use the Woosh Predictor. You enter the postcode of somewhere near the hill, press return, the map zooms to that postcode. Ajust the zoom level, then click on somewhere on or after the hill. The tool will display the gradient profile at the bottom of the page with some...

it's a piece of cake installing a BBS01 18A 350W kit to your Trek N3 I can't see why you would need to pay someone to fit it. and it's a pretty good match for your other bike in terms of pulling power and range while costing less than half of the other one.

for me, the beauty of conversion is you get a properly equiped bike with quality components at Chinese ready made bikes prices. I don't denigrate Chinese bikes on purpose, just that try as they may, Chinese made brakes and cranksets are way behind what you get on a £400 bike.

it has 3 pins - Hall sensor. Simplest solution is to remove the sensor wire (quite easy, it took me just 2 minutes to remove the lever from the handle and push the cable out), remove the existing magnet and replace it with a bigger one. yello brake connector: Brake handles:

Have you considered removing the brake sensor to fit to your hydraulic brake handles? the sensor is a Hall, the lever pushes a rod which moves a 2mm magnet in front of the Hall transistor, turning it on/off. I imagine a bigger magnet glued to the brake handle may do the same job.