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No damage to the motor, but you can blow the mosfets in the controller if you hold full power when the motor isn't turning smoothly. Just use a small amount of throttle for a short amount of time during testing. If you remove the pins from the white block motor connector on the motor side, you...

Molemead locked the bike that way because the lock was provided and it was easy. Those locks are ridiculous. All they do is add unnecessary weight to a bike. Some think it's OK as long as you keep the bike in sight and are prepared to challenge anyone that tries to carry it away; however, one...

Unfortunately, you'll only know the answer after you fit it. 2links is quite a lot. It'll affect whether you can get bottom gear or not with your biggest or only chainring. If you never use bottom gear, then a 116 links will be fine.

It means that you're measuring incorrectly and you still haven't done the important measurements that show the difference between throttle open and shut. Start again from the beginning: red probe on red wire and black probe on black wire - should be around 5v red probe on white wire and black...

Commuting is not the same riding just for fun. I did 28.8 miles a day for three years, which is the same distance that OP wants. My first bike was 36v with a 9Ah battery. On the first day, I just made it up the final climb to my house. After a month or so, my legs had become very strong, and I...

When you use a different controller, you can't guarantee that the connection sequence will be the same. There are 6 combinations when connecting each pair of phase wires (with bullet and barrel connectors) and 6 combinations of the three hall signal wires, which makes 36 combinations altogether.

It should be silent. I reckon you have the wrong motor connection sequence. Try changing the three combinations of the phase wires first. The last guy that had this said he fixed it with just the phase wires. If one of those doesn't fix it, you're going to have to go through all 36 combinations...

Sorr, I made a typo. It should be the black and white wires. Make sure that the probes are reaching the metal in the connector. Using the red wire, it should still have worked. You should have got about 4v with the throttle closed and 1v when fully-opened. Using the black and white wires, you...

I haven't ridden one, but I'd say don't waste your time nor money. It's just a weird frame design with standard cheap bicycle components and standard cheap Chinese electrics. It'll ride exactly the same as any Chinese ebike that you can buy on Ebay for less than £1000. If it cost about £700...

There's no connector for the lights. You'll have to wire them direct to the battery leads with a switch. The easiest place to solder them is underneath the block that has the battery terminals in. The two wires that connect to the bullets for the controller are already soldered there.

That looks about right. The bearing has an inner and outer race. Whatever is immediately next to it must only tiuch the inner race, obviously. I can't see any way the clutch can be affected by the bearings, except maybe if a bearing collapsed, which would put a high upward load on the gears.

Milliamp-hours (mAh)

Where do I place the probes. Do I need to disconnect the connectors? Everything must be switched on and connected. I already said, "stuff your probes into the back of the connector in the slots where the red and the white wires go in. " 4th connector down in your photo.

Have a look at the watts displayed in the LCD. You should be seeing around 100w in level 1. What sort of PAS level were you using?

If there are any duff cells in the group, anything can happen. When building a pack and not using new cells, you must test every single cell for capacity and self-draining before doing anything else with them. Building a battery yourself is a rewarding experience. It's useful if you need a...

If you don't get any lights on the charger, it's probably the fuse in the mains plug. Some chargers have hidden fuses. Whenever you get a new charger or battery, you should always check the polarity with a meter.

You haven't told us which controller you bought.

Set your meter to 20v (or whtever) and stuff your probes into the back of the connector in the slots where the red and the white wires go in.

Cells charge to 4.2v and discharge to 3.1v, which is what you should use for any capacity test. If you get 1500mAh from 1, you should get 7500mAh from 5 in parallel. 1500mAh is really too low for an ebike battery. It'll be double the weight and size of one made with modern cells. Where do you...

You should have the charger powered when you connect it to the battery. If you dfon't, you can get a spark and a snap noise, which is normal and generally fairly harmless, but it erodes the contacts in the battery's charge socket. That inrush current can be enough to blow the fuse in the battery...