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The torque washer is doing nothing, it has only a good bearing on one side so it next to useless. This is why we see s issues of drop outs wearing or wheels spinning out , a typical geared hub axle is 12mm deep which is in most cases 3mm shy of most bikes with 9mm QR drop out. Not very many...

One can save weight by using a light fork on the front and for supension use a boingy stem or proper name shockstop stem with 20mm damping, they aren't exactly cheap but Redshift make one and one fits various elastomers inside to suit the rider weight. For my ute the seating position felt a bit...

They are fusing together because of too much heat build up, is it the wire covering melting or the connector ? The heat shrink as you now have used is the answer. The fault was as I suspected yesterday when I replied to your thread, a phase /controller issue. The loud cracking noise you heard...

My boxes are 462mm square and either 152mm or 225mm high. Six of the smaller ones are about the most I carry with combs fully filled with honey as it equates to some 240lbs in weight, each box weighing some 40 odd lbs. The larger boxes are about 65lbs each if filled.

If TBU is commuting in all weather then mudguards are a must. Lights are easy they can be usb attached ones. One Q I haven't seen asked or mentioned ? Does the Rambletta roll well when folded or is it a carry job ?

Continuous discharge rating is in with the battery specs on the sellers listing or at least should be, post a link to the product page you bought from. As it is quite new one needs tt contact the seller as it is guaranteed for 12 months, but first make sure the charger output says 54.6v.

Yes, the max I carry is approx. 60cm above the trailer bed with heavy loads. Low CofG is as you say best for stability. When I first bought the CF I tried with a single stack of approx. 1m high and though no accidents, realised it was not going to be very stable for my use. One reason why I...

The reason they crush them is to send out a message to users that they WILL be destroyed and not recirculated. The frames likely heavier and the drop outs not suitable for legal 250w motors to fit. No one is going to ride around on a stealth bomber type bike with a 250w 15.5mph rating.

If you want to ride fast buy a lightweight rode bike and pedal harder. The only thing holding back the Gtec is the electronics software, stick to the KT items listed earlier in the thread and you should have little issue managing 18 or 19mph with good rider input. If wanting more you are...

You are misunderstanding what a pedelec is !!! Pedelec or EPAC , a bicycle with a motor rated at 250w continuous, no throttle and < 48v nominal battery. What you want is 1500w moped spec'd bike.

Even at 53.6% I wouldn't have been happy as it is 1v less then it should read when fully charged. Momentary shorting shouldn't cause to much issue but tbh from the first instance of the lower voltage reading I would have gone back to the seller. You don't say which cells are used, battery...

This one with 30a BMS would work but is china cells. Polly Battery DP-9C 48V19.2AH 13S6P 18650 Li-ion Battery Pack with inner controller for Ebike [Polly DP-9C battery 48V19.2AH] - $348.23 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com) You are best sticking to max 17a controller for...

No the battery is only 20a continuous so idealy for a 15/17a controller For 20 -25a controllers one needs very good higher rated cells with 21700 or 18650 cells. The continuous discharge rating means the battery can run at the rated current without damage to the cells, in this case 20a. The...

I don't advise on items to buy to go fast above the required limits, all I do is theortically say what may be possible with any given info. In #6 I have given what I think the motor is capable of at 36v, use a 17/20a controller KT kit and one should get the min speed I mentioned. If the motor...

Most chargers that get hot have little or no ventilation so heat build up can't escape, for this reason I modded my sans and now none get hot.

If you run 36v at 48v then one theoretically gets 33% more speed & torque from the hub for the same current, the controller may overheat if one can't maintain good speed on hills. One will need a controller of about 17a if wanting 48v and a battery that can discharge ideally 25a continuously so...

Show us a pic of the battery or a link to said battery and pics of the bms wires, if the BMS has three wires B- , P- & C- then it needs to be charged via dedicated cherge port. However if the BMS is a same port charge BMS it will only have B- & P- connected on the PCB.

The only likely issue inside the hub are failed nylon gears to the clutch mechanism, if so it will need opening to inspect. It is hard to tell from a description as grinding and whirring are very different.

Grinding noise from the motor ? Was it more of elctrical cracking noise rather then grinding ? One supsects it is a phase issue and most likely a controller fault.

One reason why opted to replace the bed with longer one to carry boxes in tandem, too tall and trailer stability was potentially an issue over uneven terrain or even pot holes.