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It is the motor designation. AKM 95 front hub, 42nm max rating & 2.8kg. Other hubs in the range include AKM 75, 85, 100, 125, 128, 135 & 140. The 95 is an oem supplied model, generic non oem tend to be 75, 85, 100 & 128 models.

Replace the meter battery with a new one and check again. A 48v battery can't attain 90v so something is giveing an eronuos reading. Check the charger output only to see if it is wrong. The original 49v mentioned is low so something is amiss.

Or the fith kit with lcd4, depends on how discreet a display you want. The only differences with the display data is lcd4 doesn't show watts or air temp but they aren't game changers.

That about sums it up, and F for front hub.

1000's upon 1000's of miles, occassionally but rarely hall sensor's go so need replacing (that said not yet had one go in any of my hubs over the years), sealed bearing wear and need replacing when they get rough/noisy ( quite a simple task once one has opened the hub). Hubs compared to mid...

The two battery links I posted in Flynn's threads are still available with mounting kits.

So as to make sure any new silverfish fits and locks in place correctly, nearly all come with a new base and fitting rail so it is best to simply swap out the old rail/base to ensure 100% fitting. The important bit is making sure polarity is correct so no sparks or pops occur.

Flynn's Freego threads. We got his 10 year old bike up and working for little cost. The bike condition was excellant. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/freego-eagle-2012-model.42461/#post-635329 https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/purchase-of-replacement-battery.42539/#post-637021

Any of the silverfish 36v batteries of any capacity will work for the eagle, all one has to do is 100% check that the the battery polarity matches the bikes polarity. If for some reason one or the other is arse about face, one simply swaps the wires oveR In the last couple or three years there...

Hubs go on for miles, My oldest hub has 8k miles and is still in good working order. Others have used hubs 20k miles or more.

Throttle works with about 1v on the signal wire, though need to see 4 - 5v on the 5V line from the controller.

We don't have mods on here.

But a new rim and then have the hub laced and trued cost should be about £100 + parts, Halfrauds are at it again ripping off people, why a new hub when nothing wrong with the old one ? I build my oen wheels so something worth learning, a new rim and spokes are about £30. Opt for 14g spokes...

The bullest supplied and fitted tend to be poor for the battery connectio. If one wants bullets then the gold ones are best or as most do , use an xt or anderson power pole. The sm connectors are all much a like and fairly generic fit wise.

Copper pipe lagging a good idea, one could go longer. It would either break or rebound.

Depends how many cells in parallel, being 8.7ah they are likely 2900mah cells. If they have used genuine branded cells they will be a Sam 29E or Panny PF. Both will take 22a but may suffer longevity so the 17/18a threshold is ok.

In the late 80's/early 90's tomorrow world spoke of autonomous cars and how they will be wide spread com the millenium, thus far they were wrong by at least 30 years and even today the trials are far from encouraging.

Another recipe for disaster and one that will I hope be abolished.

The second bike looks like it has a cyclone cx1 type drive, I doubt if it is 250w as stated. More of these bikes will be conficated and crushed in time, for there ott useage. Ride like a loon and get noticed is a sure way to get nicked. Even those who ride more then 250w, as long as they ride...

EPJ holidayed in the alps and would do the the ascent up to places like Jungfrau etc,etc, he became a emtb ambassodor for Giant I think but I don't know what he is doing now. His day job was as a highly skilled carpenter and woodmans with an eye on creating works of art out of any bit of tree.