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The only other possibility I can think of is mosfet thermal cut out, once a mosfet reaches it max op temp it causes a temporary short . This prevents any voltage flow until the mosfet has cooled. Reasons for overheating is usually slow ascent speed and lack of cooling.

Matt is posting on here on the move and pics as well, probably can download or share the film by whatsapp or soem other platform to save. A lot of police forces have a website to post shockingly poor driving films which they can act on.

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/what-fet-to-replace-with.31099/

There are too many posts and threas to keep looking back on, so you will have to show a pic again of the hall connector. If it is the DJ7061 6 wire one, then one just pokes the meter probes up the back of the wire to contact the metal on the pin. One needs battery power to test the 5v so one...

I shouldn't do an 8 or 10 pole disc just means pedal sensing being a bit quicker.

Report that to plod, with video evidence he will get done.

One can get them on ebay for about £10 so worth getting one anyway ready for when it breaks again.

The battery has very little detail on the spec's, no idea of cells used or current rating. Many of these sellers simply plonk a 1000w rating ona 48v battery and often they just aren't up to the job. One simply doesn't just buy a battery on the off chance like has been done and then decide a 1kw...

Some sensors do that as they are double hall and see a signal in both directions, sometimes there is a setting where the parameter can be changed but depends on the brand/system used. I had one and even the KT system couldn't prevent the backward activation so I always made sure my PAS level was 0.

One can test mosfets and hall sensors all via the controller wiring, the hall sensor wiring goes direct to the controller.

Show a pic later so we can see the exact type and connector , what ever type/model most are easy to source as they generic and 3 wires.

Just pointing out some are far easier to get thru then others, it is reckoned that opportunists won't spend more then 30 secs trying to get a lock off.

I expect it is the Pedal Assist Sensor (PAS) which has some small magnets intsalled.

The BB is a generic part, It looks to be a std english thread UN68 BB usually square taper. A UN66 socket is required to remove the UN68. The plactic bit, if one means the end cap on the crank arm then this is not part of the BB unit. If the washer is something else another pic of the item...

Show us a a pic of the BB, but one expects it is a generic part available from any good bike outlet whether in/out of town or the www. The creak could be anything from a pedal or a crank that needs tightning.

Hello Slowman, what did you buy ?

In tests the bordo granite lasted onl 19 secs when attacked by a grinder.

How about telling us what the problem is you are experiencing ?

If it is only 5 or 10mm then the frame will spread if you do it gently, then one spread the frame gently using various methods. A block of wood cut into the drop (slightly fwd of the axle drop out) and then use a mallet to gently tap the block fwd's along the stays, the frame should spread...

Either the battery age at 5 /6 years old or the ignition switch may be faulty. I would normally say the battery but first would resolder the igniton wires in case of a faulty dry solder joint or simply fit a new ignition sw, sw contacts have been known to cause issues.