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The two cells are of different brands to each other, what spec are they and what spec were the originals. 54v is ok but the battery is only as good as the weakest cell which may be one of the new ones. Will the bike work as it is ?

Best remove the full PC via edit, other wise some unscrupulous low life knows the road you live on.

Recent Cam footage of a female in scouse land being car doored riding one at 15 secs. No helmet and flew off the thing hitting the deck, looks like she was lucky and appears that her head hit the road. Woman riding scooter gets doored by guy in parked car (yahoo.com)

Any issue is to do with the cheap control system and not the hub.

Try a 1mm gap or less.

The heat mods are needed if wanting to max out the wattage or use higher watts.

Be warned riding hubs unpowered can be hard work, the extra unpowered weight and some low internal gearing ratio's tend to make the riding effort feel like pedalling thru treacle. One can soon lose the appeal of doing so. The best option is to use a KT controller kit on PAS 1 level. I would...

A search on the forum should bring up a few threads.

It is the best option without being 100% certain if the bike can be re-celled or a third party battery can be used, there will be other ebikes.

I'm ok with the CF towing weight at 90kg as my alfine axle is 10mm and not QR. The Ute is QR so 9mm but I can chop and change depending on max wight to tow, carrying a spare QR isn't an issue.

Not the bikes axle I was concerned about, t'was the trailer axles they did look a bit over strained. My 300 ltrs is for general soil improvement for plants/flowers and my fruit producing plants in the garden, 300 Itrs doesn't go very far. I try and introduce more planting each year for...

With the 350w kit, one likely had a controller that supplied greater current so PAS 1 would have felt stronger also with the TS systems the power is delivered different to cadence type controllers. Not knowing what the controller was previously with the 350w hub one can't make comparisons.

Changing the motor won't do much as it will still be supplied with the same current/voltage from the controller,/batter, the watts output will still be the same. If one wants more then more current or voltage is needed.

Does one want more power or speed or both. If the former then one can simply carry out the shunt mod on the controller with some added solder to the shunt, if speed one will need a faster rpm wound hub or go to 48v. As I expected the bike utilises TS PAS so if one wants to keep it as TS one...

XS/XX is speed related I believe, and some action involving derestriction and either cruise control or even regen braking. Other wise I don't know as not ever used a brain power.

Where/what does the julet connector plug in to ?

Yes some are pretty good for the price. Some of the cell specs match and can be even as good as the top branded known makes, it is only over time that cycling them in use will show up the better one as well.

The hub can e connected to most controllers via a 9 pin motor cable, one can buy two type of cable to suit the waterproof and the bullet/block connector style (the bullet connectors you have are a bit weird and not seen that type before). A couple of cables not sure of, there are two flat 5...

Only one is needed, simply disconnect the duff one.

Woosh made in far east assembled in the UK, good value and great CS. One can't really go much wrong with Woosh.