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OP wanted derestriction. How does that work on the Wisper?

It might be an idea to show what it is!

That's because of the Bosch CX bearing failures, which has been fixed on the new CX with the bigger chainwheel. Did he mention anything about Yamaha battery issues?

That's not true. Bafang test spec was 30,000 miles 10 years ago. What about Bazwaldo's 26,500 mile Bearprint? He commuted in all weathers all year round and contributed to many of the threads about best wet weather riding gear. Many other forum members went way past 10,000 miles without problems.

White.

Probably, but their customer service is excellent. If your clutch failed in the first year, they's probably send you one for free. This is not a big faceless corporation. It's a small family business. Bonnie is the wife or daughter of the owner. That's why I like buying from them. It's like...

That might be the difference between the 250w and 500w versions.

They have some controllers, LCDs, batteries, throttles PASs and other stuff to. It's worth getting as much as you can from them because the shipping on the other items is effectively free. I would make a shopping list and ask them if they can supply any of the items on it. I've had some kits...

BPM for up to 7 speeds with a DNP freewheel. CST if you want to use more speeds than that. The CST needs a bigger dish in the wheel.

If you're going to use your new throttle, do not try to connect it to the 5-pin. That's for the LCD. You connect it to the designated three pin connector, red to red, black to black and whatever the third throttle wire is to green. You didn't show your throttle connector, so i can't say.

Black to black, red to brown and white to yellow.

No. I've used Xofo, MXUS and Bafang versions. There's no difference between them in performance, noise, etc. I've never had any problems myself, but I had to fix a couple of Bafang ones with water inside, though it could be that someone installed them with the cable up instead of down.

If the control panel goes off, it's because its connection to the battery has been interrupted. That can be cecause of a connector problem, bad key-switch or soder joints on the back of it, or a fault in the battery.

One of your earlier photos of your original controller shows a flat black six pin connector with red, black, white, green, brown and yellow wires does it not?

In the 6-way black flat connector, the throttle wires are red black and white. You don't show what side of the connector that is. I'm assuming the throttle side. If they're different colours on the other side, you have to use the ones that join to those three wires. The green should be battery...

Photos!

You don't need those two jumpers in the middle photo. Start by connecting the motor, LCD, throttle and battery in that sequence. You can then test it. Switch on the LCD and try the throttle. Don't open the throttle right up - just a little bit unless you can see that the motor is turning...

Cwah tried an umbrella thing of some sort. It was great until he turned a corner and the wind got behind it, whereupon it turned itself inside out and flew away. It was a really funny thread because we could all see it coming...

Wrong way round. they're identical, so you need the 250w one for legality. You then program it to 18 amps to be the same as the 350w one. You'll need to buy or make the programming leads. there are loads of online guides on how to do that.

They sometimes have them at hire shops, which might be cheaper if you only use it once. You can then select one that fits. There are two requirements: 1. It has to reach over the diameter of the rotor and the feet have to get enough angle to pull on the lip without slipping off. 2. The centre...