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With the Halfords battery if one wants to use it on another bike kit one simply replaces the BMS with a generic one for about £18 if the cells are still good. A few solder joints are needed.

Red & Black have to match as they are 5v & Gnd respectively, the fact the signal happens to be the same (Blue) is coincidental.

Pretty much Chinese made as any other bike practically esp component wise.

Later model 15 mopeds may have had the cadence sensor PAS replaced with a TS sensor and you may have the later controller version that supports TS.

No use buying from Fogstar unless one can spot weld cells and solder BMS and associated wiring in place. A decent arduino based spot welder and a high rate lipo battery for power, a lipo balance charger is going to be circa £225.

A voltage reading is the only sure way of knowing if a battery is fully charged, though likely the voltage is simply collapsing with any decent load. Led charge lights are only an indication.

Yes most current is at low speed so can be on starting or climbing. Invariably one needs to fit a watt or coulomb meter to gauge current usage.

White wires will be either learn wires or a speed restriction wire. Ok we will take it then that throttle is the Green group and the pink could or may be is for a torque sensor (which makes more sense with 4 wires).

The main marking of 350/500w is to satisfy the US market where everything has to be bigger and so called better, they simply won't purchase 250w marked hubs on mass.

What about the pedal option of PAS ? Either the light Green or Pink ? If the Pink group has a White wire I would be inclined to think it may be for a throttle, otherwise you will need E rider to confirm the wire connectors status.

A little off topic on this one but did you Billy carry out hall sensor testing on your hub motor ?

The rating is usually spec'd by the seller/manufacturer and will depend on the cells and BMS used.

P1 46 for D/D hubs. D/D hubs have no gear reduction which is why they are next to impossible to ride with no power. The maths for gear ratio is simple gear ratio 0 x motor magnets 46 = P1 46.

The max power depends on the continuous rating of the battery discharge (not the peak current ) and the controller max current rating. Pointless buying a controller with a 20a max draw if a battery continuous rating is equal or less. So before deciding on the kit one needs to know the limit of...

In the pic in #47 one has to pull out the white JST connector with the one Red wire and 11 White wires, then take individual cell readings via the pin outs on the connector. Unusually there are 12 sense wires for 10s , its is common to see 11. So I assume the first White is b0/b- and the Red...

A 500w is no different to a 250w at sub 20a the only advantage is if you want to pump 25/30a in to one.

As mentioned the 328 is ok as long as one has flat terrain to ride on, if one has hills to contend with it isn't much good unless used in 16"wheels.

Looks good Chris you will have to keep the forum up dated with their progress over the next couple of years, good to see you have got new cells all the same brand and not recycled mismatched ones. I haven't found much on them yet but looks like a China branded cell certainly one I have not...

It wasn't me who was injured.

It won't unless the controller has a max 50 amp current rating and the battery BMS allowed this. With any battery build, regarding current draw (amps) one should allow approx. a 30% head room or more on the current draw of the battery so that the controller cannot draw more. If one wanted to...