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You don't need to have a dual mode bike. They're not legal anyway because you can't use a 1000w motor in a licence-free pedelec. Use a 250w motor to be legal. Use a controller with lots of amps and a battery with lots of volts. Use a programmable controller, like a KT. When you want an...

I wish people wouldn't use fear-mongering when people have problems. Can you name one person that has ever been electrocuted from a 36v ebike battery? If not, why bring that into the discussion? The guy made a simple mistake that anybody could do and others have done. it wasn't because he can't...

You need to measure the voltage on the terminals on the case, where they connect to the bike.

The same as always, you can't do anything without a meter. First, you need to measure the voltage on the battery terminals.

https://wheelsmfg.com/bb-standards

The controller doesn't care what sort of battery you have. The cut off voltages are the same. That can't be the original controller anyway because the current is too high. You need to change it to one with no more than 22 amps, otherwise you run the risk of damaging your motor. 15 amps is...

This is the approach I've always taken. It's no big deal to charge both batteries before connecting. Why would you want to use a half-charged one if you're going on a journey that needs two batteries?

Most batteries come with a charger. The nihm charger probably wonz't work any because they normally monitor a temperature sensor, which a lithium battery doesn't have.

There's always one in the plug.

It depends which cells you have.

22g or 24g. I'm not sure wha that is in squared mm. You'll have to look up a conversion table. Get a meter of each if you want an exact match.

Before doing anything, make sure that the motor conector is in all the way until the outer meets the marked line, not just in tight.

Try holding the button for a long time to see if it wakes up.

You can get the battery recelled at www.ebikebatteries.co.uk for about £250 or you can buy a ready-made cell-pack and recell it yourself for about £150 (requires soldering) r ou can buy a standard silver fish battery and adapt the connecton.

I'd chuck it all and get lithium.

You need to tell us which bike it is and specifically which bottom bracket you have because there id a large range of sizes. There are some adaptors for the most common ones, otherwise you have to get an engineering shop to turn you up some.

You don't have to balance nihms. If the pack voltage is down, they're probably scrap. There's no BMS either.

Great write up, thanks. I have a few comments: You mentioned 12g battery wire. Personally, I'd use 14g, which is good up to around 30 amps. The wire in your photo looks thinner than 12g - more like 14g! I would have used a bit of flattened copper pipe as the heatsink and I don't see the need...

It wiuld help if you told us which battery you have.

That's right. As I said, unless you have good DIY skills, it's a no go. Here's one I did that gives you some idea of what's involved; however, you have three additional problems to solve: 1. Insufficient space to mount the battery in the triangle; 2. The chainwheel is too small for an electric...