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And it begs the question about how it blew when only one end is connected.

It's handy that it has steel forks for the front motor. That's quite unusual on a bike like that.

That's right. it's the weight that makes the biggest difference. I wasn't sure whether your question was just about the motor resistance or the overall difference. Riding my 22kg electric bike on level 1 (60 - 80w) takes about the same effort and goes about the same speed as my 8kg road bike...

I think the Powabyke one is different. It might be a proximity sensor What's the voltage on the socket in the controller between red and black? Where is the sensor located and what does it sense?

I'm very sure. You need a battery that can give 35 amps continuous or more.

They all look OK to me, so that's not the problem. There are compatibility issues with the 12 magnet PASs, so always check with the throttle. When that's working, you can sort out the PAS. The throttle abnormality code comes up when the controller detects a non-zero throttle signal when...

That's always best.

Front hub motors are the only choice when you have hub-gears and weird cranks. In those circumstances, a front motor is the best choice. This thread is about what's best. Have you tried a Swytch kit? I have, and I didn't like it at all. The lighter battery version might be better. My first...

Some motors don't like to run sensorless and some controllers can run sensorless better than others.

Go back and read my post #3.

The motor is the last thing I'd be looking at. You need to do some tests with a meter. Can you open up that bag thing and show us what's inside. If there's an aluminium box, drag it out and show us some photos of all the wires and connectors.

Rack batteries always make bikes feel tail heavy, wherever the motor. It's the height of the weight that does it barbecue it gives more leverage to the weight. Rear wheel punctures also are nothing to do with rear motors because it's the same with motorbikes, where front wheel punctures are not...

That sounds much too low to me. The no-load current is about 1 amp, depending on the winding speed, and probably half of that at 15 mph. Taking into account efficiencies, you'd have to put in the equivalent of about 0.375 amps. At 48v, that would be 18W. Looking at it another way, a normal...

The white wire is the speed sensor. It's not needed for normal operation, but if your controller has a sleep mode set, it will go to sleep after the set time unless you can unset it. You can use an external speed sensor if you have an LCD and want to get your display back. Just cut the sensor...

Hmmm! 15kw motor - great! It's 1.75 kwh battery will last for 7 minutes at full power with a range of 7 miles. That would be a very frustrating bike to own. At least you'd get plenty of exercise pedalling it home.

Put the bike in bottom gear, then turn it upside down (switched off. Spin each wheel by hand to check that they spin freely, then turn the pedals by hand. You shouldn't be able to feel the motor turning and the pedals should require very little effort to turn.

People making theories. I can tell you after around 20,000 miles of using every type of motors, including 2WD bikes and even one with three motors, that there's no question that a rear motor isn't the best by far for normal riding on the road. You should only fit a front motor if you have no...

Not all batteries are born equal. There are important parameters that you need to consider. You start by looking at the label on your motor controller to see what the maximum amps are that it will deliver, then you need to add at least 5 amps to it for headroom, so for a 25 amp controller, you...

I think you need to tell us whether you have a crank motor or hub motor.

That picture is terrible. How can we help you from that? Show the actual wires you have.