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They're capacitors, not resistors. What I need Know is where the via hole goes, so probe from the bottom of one or the top of the other to see what other pad/s it's connected to.

can't you just fire up the motor and see how fast it spins?

The normal wires for a 790 display are: red - battey voltage blue - battery voltage when panel switched on. It powers the controller. black - ground green - PAS speed: level 1, 1v; level 2, 2V; level 3, 3v; walk assist, 4v. You don't show your colours, but judging by the position of the yellow...

There isn't really anything in the controller that can do that unless it's some sort of unusual fault. Can you just clarify what's going on? I understand what you're saying about the motor cutting, but what happens after that? How does it come back on to try again? Does it come back by itself...

There is no additional obesity epidemic cost. Everybody will die. Most will become ill and need looking after before that time comes. The cost of treating someone with diabetes is fairly insignificant compared with the cost of keeping someone in a home while they become more and more helpless...

You can get a matching cable here, but you have to cut off the connector on the other end and solder the wires to a normal controller, otherwise you have to buy everything from Decathlon...

Before you think about using it for a project, let me tell you my experience with an Ezee mk2 motor. I tried all the modern controllers, but I couldn't get any that would make it run properly despite trying every setting and wire combinations, though I could get it to run smoothly backwards. I...

That guy, Peter Sripol has done some great projects. He designed and built an aeroplane from scratch and flew it, then there was his dog powered phone charger.

None of that makes any sense, and, frankly, I don't believe it's true. there is nothing in a hub-motor control system that can change the performance sub-15mph because the speed limit is released. So, a mate had an unrestricted bike and his spokes broke. Ergo, derestricting a bike breaks...

You should feel ashamed in not understanding how hub-motors work. What you're saying would be correct for an unrestricted crank-motor system, but the back emf from a typical 260 rpm hub-motor, like on the Oxygen and some of your bikes prevents that. With a 15mph cut-off, the motor will cut in...

I agree in principle with all of that and with what Georgehenry wrote. If the aliens landed and appointed me as dictator of the UK, here's what I'd do. Compulsory insurance on all bicycles, electric or not. Non-electric bicycles subject to local speed limits on the road. No licence or helmet...

Please enlighten us with your wisdom by giving examples of such problems. I say that statement is completely bogus, but I'm always ready to adapt my opinions in the face of hard evidence. Speed has no detrimental affect whatsoever on a bike with a hub-motor. The fast it spins, the lower is the...

That's a ridiculous test. The teeth and valleys on cassettes are all different shapes to aid shifting.

Rotate the wheel slowly by hand in each direction. One way, you should feel the motor turning and the other way (forwards), it should be free. If you feel the motor both ways, your clutch is stuck.

Did you do the tests I suggested above? Why don't you provide some proper photos of what you have? You're not helping us to help you. Most of what's been written above was a complete waste of time because everybody guessed wrongly what you have.

Are you using hall sensors?

Just for my own understanding, I'd like to know what those two components do, marked R1 and R2. Is there any chance that you could scrape the via hole on the corner of the "H" and test continuity to every single solder pad to see where it goes?

It's probably better to get one from Elifebike or Topbikekit, where you can get w PAS, throttle and motor extension cable to go with it to save butchering all your Oxygen stuff.

That KT controller won't fit. Only the 6 FET 15 amp one does. Maybe this 17A one fits. You have to check the size. https://www.amazon.co.uk/KT-Controller-Electric-display-Display/dp/B07KP4SDQ3/ref=sr_1_90?dchild=1&keywords=kt%2Bcontroller%2B36v&qid=1596209781&sr=8-90&th=1

You should have parameter P3 set to 1, which sets the controller to current control, so each pedal assist level in the LCD gives a different current. setting the controller to a lower level of current would decrease the possibility of it over-heating, but the lower power would mean lower speed...