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The soldering is messy and he has the wrong type of hall sensors. Anything is possible. SS49s consume about 6 ma x 3 = 18ma. At 5V, that would make their combined resistance about 278 ohms, which is not far off what you measured.

If you're going to stick with 36v, it makes no difference. 48v gives the option of more power and speed in the future. Sine wave controllers make the motor much smoother and quieter. the main advantage of KT controllers is that they give a different power in each of the PAS levels, while as...

P3=0 is current control, where each level gives a different current (power) and max speed is the lower of what you have set or whatever the motor can spin to, P3=1 is speed control, where each level gives a different maximum speed, and maximum current is allowed in each level. Torque is...

Ok, it's a problem between the controller and the motor, and not a problem between the battery and controller. That motor connector still looks like it's not all the way in, but you've angled the photo again, now from the other direction. can't you show a photo at right angles, or better still...

That clutch looks knackered. If the rollers are rusty, it'll slip and/or jam. It would be better to buy the whole thing. https://www.greenbikekit.com/accessories/bafang-8fun-spare-parts/bafang-bldc-hub-motor-clutches.html

Folded electric bikes are massive and heavy, and they're awkward to carry. You wouldn't want to take one on a bus regularly. Go to a shop and try one - folding and carrying rather than riding to see if you think it'll work.

He might have another path through his hall sensors.

By deduction, R1 is a capacitor to filter high frequency noise out of the system. R2 is either a pull-down resistor that makes the speed sensor work properly when fitted or its another capacitor to filter noise from it. Either way, without the speed sensor, it doesn't do anything. likewise, the...

What does that mean? Show us what you need.

You can test the motor wires from the controller end. Each one should beep to the other two. You can then test from each to the 5 hall wires. If any beep, you're out.

Can you show the motor connector from the side? it doesn't look like it's fully home in that photo, but it'd blurred and angled. What happens to the battery indicator lights when it stutters? Do they go down or off, or do they hold steady?

Is it similar to a Bradthorpe 3R?

If someone wants to upgrade their controller, we normally recommend a KT controller because they have a much better control system, but they're around £70. That controller you proposed will work better than the one you had, so it's a step in the right direction.

All you need to do is add a blob of solder to the shunt in the controller. 20% more power for zero cost. Your motor is already a 500w one labelled 250w.

Your pointer is set to 200M resistance. Woops!

There are quite a lot of possibilities for why your bike behaves like that. Start with the easy ones: Check that the motor connector near the motor is all the way in to the marked line. If that's not the problem, you have o look in the compartment at the front of the battery where the...

Tell us something about your bike. They're all different. How can we know what you have?

Hold on, try testing it like this: Put your black probe on one of the 6 pads on the pcb (H, 5v,GND, A, B, C.), then put your red probe on each of the 8 or 9 pins at the other end of the cable to determine how many beep. repeat for the other 5 positions. If more than one beeps for any one pad...

if you fit a second spoke magnet, you'll be able to show your mates your bike going 90 mph, but why stop there? 4 spoke magnets will show 180 mph and 5 will crack 200 mph.

Are you saying that your throttle is limited to 4 mph? If so, there is a setting in the LCD to change it, but there might be a password that you have to enter. Best to ask Roo Dog first. they're normally very helpful if you explain your problem.