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I'm talking about the motor cable that comes out of the axle and heads off to the controller - the thick black wire with cables inside it. The wire that you had to unplug to remove the wheel from the bike.

The original battery was a 24v 10Ah silver fish type. It's a standard battery that you can buy from Ebay or Aliexpress. As long as the case is the same shape, you can fit whatever capacity you want. Batteries have moved on since that bike was made, so you can get much better ones now for not too...

Most sensors work with the default settings, except the 12 magnet and double hall ones. If you stick to the cheapo 8 or ten magnet ones, you shouldn't get any problem.

There's no connector. It's soldered.

If it's working, you have a suitable setting for C1. The first column is how many magnets in the disc behind the chainwheel. The second column is how sensitive it is. If it works, the sensitivity is correct. C14 affects how much power you get when you set the Pedal assist levels on the LCD. The...

The beep is at 5 o'clock, the position next to the 200. Follow the cable out of the motor until you come to the end. That's here the connector/s is/are. Plug your probes into the bottom two positions where it says V and Com.

You can buy a ready-made lithium cell-pack rather than the lithium equivalent batteries. The cell-pack will be about twice the cost of your SLAs, but will last twice as long (or more) and give double the range. Have a look on Aliexpress. Many of them come with the corect charger too. You have...

It looks OK to me -not bad for the money. 10Ah battery will get a 90kg not too fit rider about 30 miles on moderately hilly roads. That looks like a new Bafang Control panel. The control system might be crappy, though adequate. Only a test will tell.

That's a different type. I was talking about the 60v ones with a buck converter in them and a massive bulbous lens on the front: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-30W-CREE-U2-LED-Motorcycle-Spotlight-DRL-Driving-Fog-Lamp-Head-Light-12V-60V/192876698813?hash=item2ce858dcbd:g:dQAAAOSwHStb7Tqz

Trust me, they're too narrow to be any use on a bicycle. I bought one, so I know.

Why don't you try it, then you'll know?

The 12 magnet one is most likely handed, so test which way it works before installing. The 8 magnet one is only directional, so make sure you know which way it works before installing too. I'd use the 8 magnet one because there are often compatibility issues with those 12 magnet ones. Take the...

Take off the plate at the top of the battery receiver. You should be able to see the controller in the frame there.

It's not clear why you're messing about with that connector because the battery just slides into the frame without any wires. Are you saying that the new battery doesn't fit the receiver plate, so you have to swap receiver plates?

It depends what you want to test. All you have to do is ask when you have something to test.

If you're both freewheeling down the hill, a heavier rider will not only accelerate faster, but he'll also reach higher top speed, thanks to Isaac newton. Maybe he was just saving his brakes.

It doesn't really matter what they're claiming. One thing is sure: 15x CREE XM-L U2 will be bloody bright, when 1x CREE XM-L U2 is enough to fully light unlit off-road tracks.

Avoid the ones with a thick lens on the front. They're more like spotlights with a very narrow beam. The silver ones with several LEDs are not bad.

For ebikes, one of these would be good enough: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DT-832-Mini-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-Volt-Amp-Ohm-Diode-hFE-Continuity-UK/164278588103?hash=item263fc452c7:g:OPgAAOSw-F1ejt-r&LH_BIN=1&redirect=mobile

I started my 15 miles each way commute on an ebike when I was completely unfit, 57 years old and I weighed 100kg. I loved every minute of it from the first ride until I retired. 8 miles of it was one straight open main road, the rest was suburban. The main concern with London commuting is...