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If your controller and LCD are 36v/48v, then it's only the cost of the battery. remember, you need more power to go faster as well. If you fit a small high-speed motor, like the one you suggested, it probably won't give enough power to get to the speed it needs to to run efficiently. It'll only...

Show a photo of the motor and see if the motor has any markings. So far we have 48v sensored brushless motor. The controller has conventional block connectors. The only thing we need is the power.

This one is better. It has the wires for a switch to switch the battery off. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32830759079.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.45.7e6d7abe2a5If6

Easiest solution would be for you to get a meter and test the halls. I can't see the other side of the PCB, but from what I can see, it's like this: The halls are normal halls connected directly to the 5v supply and ground. Each signal wire is connected directly to the wires attached to the...

In principle, all controllers work the same so you can use any one you want of the same voltage. There are some deciding factors that you haven't provided any info on: 1. Brushed or brushless motor? Brushed have 2 power wires, brushless have 3 or more. 2. Sensored or sensorless motor? Sensored...

To answer the recent spate of enquiries on this matter. Through my contacts at Oxygen, I have the following info: They have changed the harness and the display to eliminate the throttle and prevent derestriction. That means that to fit a throttle and/or derestrict, the easiest solution would be...

I managed to get one apart to replace the plastic gear without any instruction, so no, it's no big deal. No point in taking it apart until you've done a few thousand miles.

Where did you buy it from? If it's from SYEBC (the importers), they used to put the throttle in the box of bits, but dealers always seem to take it back out for some reason.

The 75 is a tiny thin motor that is only suitable for low power and light weight solutions. the one I had was sensorless too, so only worked with certain controllers, though your listing does say it has sensors and shows the 9-pin connector.

If he has 8 speeds or more, he needs a cassette motor, so the out of stock one would be a bad choice.

Well guys, we no longer have to worry about grammar anymore because it's racist. Apparently, certain minorities never had the advantage of education. Rather than waste resources bringing them up to a suitable standard, it's been decided to lower the standard at this University that teaches...

The lights we mentioned earlier have built in buck converters specific to the lights as a ready-made solution. They're cheap, efficient and reliable - win win!

Can you check whether you have the capped off connector on the harness that's clipped to the head-tube?

I don't need internet calculators, like you because I understand how it works, so I can do it in my head. They used to call it mental arithmetic. Of course you can only do that if you have the understanding and the mental capacity to multiply by 6. That's right. the resistor will be fine when...

The deciding factors are: 1. Tapered or straight steerer depending on your steering head tube. You can put a straight steerer in a tapered frame, but not the other way round. 2. Wheel size 3. Length of travel depending on what sort of riding you do. 100mm is fine for commuting. 4. Length of...

Just get a 48T chainring and you'll be fine. you'll probably want a new chain with 6 extra links or splice in a bit of chain to your existing one.

Take them out and look at the shape. There are only a few different ones that are common across different brakes, then you can match them to what's on Ebay.

It's a Chinese electric scooter with a DD motor in the back wheel. here's what it would look something like with the panels on. The 4 SLAs sit in that cradle under the floorboards. Here's another one that Cyclezee snapped in China...

You need 48T to get decent gearing for just about any unrestricted electric bike, assuming that you have 11 on the back

This one for the rear. If somebody pealed off the label and it would be the same as any other "250w" motor: http://www.topbikekit.com/akm128cst-48v500w-rear-driving-hub-motor-cassette-motor-for-ebike-p-723.html