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I gave a link to a pas sensor/disc in #5 all you have to do is find one with the connector to match your one. There are some on ebay , amazon, Torquetech.co.uk, Topbkiekit plus many other sites. A simple job is being made a meal of and made to look really hard, when it is really quite simple.

If you have cut and shut the wire harness then the fault likely lies within and a possible short on the wiring ?

It's not often a poster whether existing or new apologises are after berating or insulting another in a reply, kudos for coming clean and you will earn respect from forum users for doing so.

Nexus hub twist gears, if you stop simply change gear to the one you want. Kudos Safari £695 if any are left a lot of bike for the money.

Fit them to the inside of the small chain ring, use epoxy glue or I drill mine and use the chain ring bolts.

Simply look on ebay, amazon or aliexpress. SOMEDAY KT Ebike Pedal Assistant Sensor 6 8 12 Magnets BZ4(8) BZ10C V12L D12L Dual Hall Sensors PAS For Electric Bike Motor Kit|Electric Bicycle Accessories| - AliExpress

With any Hollowtech type BB they are best fitted on the drive side behind the small chain ring , as with your pic you are not able to drill out with a hole saw just buy a BZ10c pas for about £10 - £12 and all the work is done for you.

Have a look at C14, one can try and use value 1 or 2 to lessen the strength it may help with over run, though as I mentioned not something I have experienced with my KT's. It may be an older firmware version of KT controller the new dual voltage ones don't have this issue in my experience...

I get lvc down to 38v with my 44v battery and approx. 41.6 for my 48v if I need to. 44.8v would be a get me home or limp home voltage using only low power, but with speed control there is no such low power as all levels give max current until you exceed the set speed in each assist. Where as my...

Which sensor type ? Also you really only need to fit one to the rear lever, two can be problematic as you never know which one is faulty when an issue arises.

You should be able to get three good ohm readings in the 7-14k zone on the GND/Black wire test, it is only the V+/Red with no power that the reading may be 1 and rising. If you get a zero then a fet has gone.

For P5 with 36v I tend to use 10 or 12, my older lcd1 & 2 have no V readout but the segments go down fairly universal so over the years I have got know the approx. V's of each segment. With my lcd3 bike I simply use the voltage readout for accuracy.

Yes quite right 24v is 7s.

Woosh will add a kit to convert most any bike.

What make is the controller ? Is it also a KT ? If the controller isn't a KT then that might explain the over run, none of my KT's suffer overrun. If the lcd3 is showing a voltage readout then use that as your fuel gauge and not the battery bars as they are too a degree pretty useless for...

Parallel are the batteries connected to each other to form a string or group of cells, the amount of cells in parallel can be as many as you like. Series is the amount of Parallel strings/groups also connected to gain the required voltage. Each parallel string/group has a nominal voltage of...

Hubs still climb steep hills, and like mid drive can get warm though the first thing to suffer is the controller with heat. When talking hills I'm not talking gut busting TDF inclines of many K's. For road and inclines a hub is plenty capable for off road then a mid drive. That said I now use...

One can get a lot of exercise out of a hub motor e bike as one can a mid drive, you choose the appropriate controller system that enables one to do so. Like mid drive one can ride with no power and a live display reading. Long term the hub bike will likely be more reliable then a mid drive.

Hub bike all day long for me.

10 - 12 ah battery at 48v should comfortably do 30 miles. I get 25 miles from 6ah battery @ 44v on flat terrain and 25 miles from 8.7ah @24v with 1000' ascent. It all depends on terrain, wind and rider effort.