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Model name ? Depends on how it rides unassisted and how athletic the rider is, the 250wh battery battery for a good fit rider should be capable of 30 miles. With 2S 10P of GA cells one would suspect about 12a max from the controller other wise they won't last too long if asked to draw high...

When the bike cuts out at approx. 80%, one needs to rule out bad cell group. The only way to do this is get all of the cell group readings which means opening the battery to do so. If it is a BMS issue then you have no chance at all, even if a spare can be sourced it would need programming to...

Write down of all your P & C settings and then press C10 Y for a system restore and re- enter the values and see if P settings stop blinking. For the speed setting what do you have P2 set as ? Also doe the motor have internal speed sensor or an external spoke magnet and sensor ?

The controller is likely to work straight out of the bag once connected. For P settings. P1. Value is motor magnets (not speed signal magnets) x the internal gearing ratio. Which hub is being used ? P2. Is the speed signal, how many magnets ? In most cases it will be 1 or possibly 6...

These aren't generic parts they are part of a bespoke bike design, you only have to look at the cheaper Carrera Suntour bikes with TS BB. The spares have to come from Suntour via a third party vendor.

If you need a charger with adjustment then a Meanwell will suit from the HG range.

Wire in line directly between the battery and controller a cheap 2 wire voltgae display to give real world reading.

But Ben our Pedelec speed before aligning with the Europe was indeed 12mph, so we actually gained out of the harmonising with Europe and at the time UK law was 200w.

The reason for being expensive is; 1. The UK market for them is limited and small. 2. The hoops to go through to get them reg'd and the lack of the Insurers knowing bugger all about them. 3. Because companies like to hike the price.

This where geared hubs like Alfine or Nexus are good, one can change gear whilst at stand still.

Charger voltage is fixed.

I think even the KTM used hand shaking between battery and controller so a generic battery wouldn't work.

I doubt you will be able to post them Ben, it would have to be collection. The old Sam 22p (cobalt ) were a good cell at 10a rating, so could be a good little project for some one. I take all my cells or any type of battery to my in -laws business (security alarms) as they get paid by weight...

Before buying anything you need to show us clear pics of the controller and each connector for the lights, horn laid out to see clearly. Most bike controllers don't use a brake light function , do you mean brake cut out ?

Test the controller 5v line correctly first to rule it out.

You will likely have to either 3d one or buy a spares/ repair one off ebay.

If the 5v line is down in the controller then it needs a new controller or better still replace the whole electrics kit for about £70 to a better system. But first the voltage fault needs confirming, measuring the voltage is pretty easy via the lcd ,throttle or PAS ( with block connectors) to...

If lipo's have been used to power the bike without issue then yes, wire up and use any generic battery. If the original battery and charger used possible comm's to charge then as you have done so with the lipo's use an alternative correct charger/charging method.

One born every day then , you struck lucky.

None of my BMS go as low as 29v, most of mine are at about 32v.